POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?

JimDawson

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Are you planning on running a countersink with same program to take down the edges?
Yes, that will happen after the plate is bolted down to the tooling plate and faced. Right now that fixture plate is bolted down to another fixture plate that we use for making fixture plates, give us 1/2'' clearance for through drilling holes. We built kind of a quick change pallet system.
 

finsruskw

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Geesh!!
Took me over an hour to drill and tap 8 10/24 holes with a drill/tap and then I broke the tap on the last hole!!
I wasn't quick enough on the draw to hit the stop switch and brake at the same time.
Let's see....a $15 tap and 8 holes....that's what, about $2 per hole!! :bang head:
 

Shootymacshootface

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That looks great. Are you going to press the sockets in to the handle?
As a matter of fact, they are going to be pressed in. All 3 of the round parts are different diameters and the 3 holes are bored .001 under size for their assigned part. I will press them in only half way thru and fill in the back with a nice hot weld then clean up the welds with an endmill.
Did you actually notice that the holes were bored and not drilled?
 

DavidR8

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As a matter of fact, they are going to be pressed in. All 3 of the round parts are different diameters and the 3 holes are bored .001 under size for their assigned part. I will press them in only half way thru and fill in the back with a nice hot weld then clean up the welds with an endmill.
Did you actually notice that the holes were bored and not drilled?
Yes, I thought the holes looked bored and not drilled.


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DavidR8

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As a matter of fact, they are going to be pressed in. All 3 of the round parts are different diameters and the 3 holes are bored .001 under size for their assigned part. I will press them in only half way thru and fill in the back with a nice hot weld then clean up the welds with an endmill.
Did you actually notice that the holes were bored and not drilled?
Yes, I thought the holes looked bored and not drilled.


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Franko

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I got a laugh when I saw the supper high tech music station next to the old school drawing table.
Nice work though.
I still use the drawing board on almost every project I make. On complicated projects, I work out the details on the computer using Adobe Illustrator. Then, I take it to the board and draw an isometric to make sure I understand I haven't left something out. It's like building it without cutting up expensive materials, an important step nowadays as my brainpower deteriorates.

I still design and do hand-drawn layouts for clients for approval of concept. I'm more creative with a pencil than with a mouse.
 

Boswell

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I'm more creative with a pencil than with a mouse
I get that. I started on vellum but for many years build my models in 3D using autocad. I find it even easier to see what fits and doesn't. However, when I am not sure how to build something. I start on paper as I also find It is easier to be creative on paper but as soon as I have the concept down, I move to CAD.
 

Franko

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Boswell, i have yet to learn CAD. I gave it a shot a few years ago but found it to be clunky and completely alien from my thinking process and any drawing software I was already proficient with. I spent most of my career being an illustrator, so it is natural for me to sit at a board and draw.
 

silverhawk

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Vellum? I still have a couple of rolls. Being a computer geek, y'all may think I am funny, too. I don't own a copy of autocad or have fusion 360. When it comes to my 3d stuff, I use old command line style things like POV-ray (art) or openscad (printer). My part drawings and electrical schematics are all on paper, though.

joe
 

mmcmdl

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Getting ready to scrap another personal tool for the company . .156 carbide ball end mill removing a broken tap in a die . :( Good thing is , I'm only here for 11 hours tonight thanks to DST . :encourage: And the weather is looking good for tomorrow .
 

pdentrem

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Did you use plop to work out the mirror supports?
Yes I have done so before on previous builds. I compared the factory supports to the Plop and there is a major difference between the radial distance on the inner 3 points, while the outer 6 are almost in the same location. Plop has the inner closer to the center by about 15 mm.
 

Shootymacshootface

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I finished my vise handle last night. The last thing I did before quitting was to paint it. All dry this morning so I put the handle on, (umm, the handle?).
It works so slik!
That is a .45cal gas check to keep the threads safe.
20200307_191459.jpg
Right side still a little warm.
20200307_194339.jpg
20200307_194418.jpg
20200308_001533.jpg
FIN!
20200308_121916.jpg
 

DavidR8

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I finished my vise handle last night. The last thing I did before quitting was to paint it. All dry this morning so I put the handle on, (umm, the handle?).
It works so slik!
That is a .45cal gas check to keep the threads safe.
View attachment 316127
Right side still a little warm.
View attachment 316128
View attachment 316129
View attachment 316130
FIN!
View attachment 316131
Nice work.
I might copy yours.
Thinking about 1/2” thick aluminum handle with sockets pressed into undersized holes.


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Shootymacshootface

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Thanks David, I think that there would need to mechanically lock the sockets on if you went with aluminum. Just a pressed fit wouldn't be enough, especially for the end socket.
 

DavidR8

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Thanks David, I think that there would need to mechanically lock the sockets on if you went with aluminum. Just a pressed fit wouldn't be enough, especially for the end socket.
Good point.
Maybe cross-drilled and a roll pin ?
Or I go with steel :)

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Lonnie

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I wanted to make one of these speed handles for awhile now and actually built this one about a week ago. Everything was made by me except the sockets of course.
I used 12 point sockets because it's what I had. The sockets were a press fit of 0.002" and glued in with loctite 680. So far, I have been able to torque up vise pretty tight without anything slipping. I will put in a grub screw to hold the socket if it ever does slip.


 

Cadillac STS

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I wanted to make one of these speed handles for awhile now and actually built this one about a week ago. Everything was made by me except the sockets of course.
I used 12 point sockets because it's what I had. The sockets were a press fit of 0.002" and glued in with loctite 680. So far, I have been able to torque up vise pretty tight without anything slipping. I will put in a grub screw to hold the socket if it ever does slip.


12 point sockets are better for that, twice as many angles to put the wrench on to get best leverage.
 

rwm

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That handle looks beautiful. How did you mill the backside so nicely flat? Carbide tooling?
Robert
 

Lonnie

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That handle looks beautiful. How did you mill the backside so nicely flat? Carbide tooling?
Robert
Yes, I virtually only use carbide end mills for everything now.
That was actually cut with my cheap carbide end mill set from Banggood.
 

DavidR8

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Yes, I virtually only use carbide end mills for everything now.
That was actually cut with my cheap carbide end mill set from Banggood.
Would you be willing to pop the spinning handle off so this newbie can see what it looks like when it’s not screwed on?


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Ianagos

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Good point.
Maybe cross-drilled and a roll pin ?
Or I go with steel :)

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Why not just mill the hex in?

Edit I see everyone is making these I guess I’ll make one soon too. I’m just confused why everybody is using socket and not just milling the hexes in?
 

Shootymacshootface

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Why not just mill the hex in?

Edit I see everyone is making these I guess I’ll make one soon too. I’m just confused why everybody is using socket and not just milling the hexes in?
I used sockets to so that the handle wouldn't be wobbly on the hex shaft and wear resistance.
 
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