2018 POTD Thread Archive

This adventure with the 4-wheel buggy is intriguing. What is this "anti-rust acid?" Sound like a contradiction, since acids tend to cause corrosion.
Can you explain, please?

Acid can clean rust, but also takes lots of material off, this acid i'm using is specially formulated to stop the rust and provide temperley protection from the weather, i've attached picture, this product is made in Serbia by the Hemmax company.
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According to the MSDS, Ospho is (ortho)phosphoric acid, H3PO4.
 
The work continues, i started by sanding some of the spots with 40 grid sand paper to give the high build primer tooth to grab
, then i blow off them and masked them with business card size pieces of paper and started to spray them, but the paper blow off, so i went back to the tried and thru plastic and masking tape, i started with two wheels at a time, mask and spray them to keep the overspray down, i apply 3 coats on some in spots even to 5 coats to cover all the defects, and when all of them vore grey i notice that the factory russian wheels are different one form other, some have bigger off set then others, will need to measure them to be sure but even in the picture you can see the ones that are stood up are different one from other, making them and painting took me an entire afternoon at the end i spray the backside of the rusty rims with the same anti rust acid i'm using on the bodyshell. I plan to leave them drying for a week to avoid any shrinkage later on, hard day of work and my injured back sure is complaining.
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This is a project over a few nights. I am building a pin press to press the main pin from my bull dozer tracks. I still need to make a mounting bracket so I can get the centre of the pin to bore the holes for the pin to push thru.
Everything is from the junk yard. I found a piece 1” plate that I cut into the angled pieces on the band saw and then milled the edges at 30 degree angles and then faced them on my lathe. The 7B05D350-A8F7-46CB-8F09-F2F01F7F12D0.jpegEFEC2CDE-3C97-4113-8354-F4D912BD5DAC.jpegB26943F1-34C2-401E-9654-A631E7A3D968.jpeg31D1C598-987D-467A-91BD-8427EDD7E625.jpeg1” all thread which has been a pain because it was really beat up. I have run a tread chaser up and down them to try and get the nuts to spin freely. I also countersinked the holes and put copper bushings to protect the all thread. I peened over the edges in the 60 degree countersunk holes to hold them in
Cheers
Martin
PS I know the hydraulic ram is short but I will have to use a couple different lengths of pins to get the length I need. Also it is only a single acting cylinder but you have to run with what you brought.
 
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I like what you're doing there Martin.
I cringe when I see people beating on pins with an 8 pound sledge.
 
Nice work on the press Martin, i don't know what size of machine you have, and what pressures you plan to run, but be careful, with the holes been so close to the edges i've had stuff go flying when they let go under pressure.
 
Today i put in a full day of work on my shop, first, i clean up the edges of the hole where the fuel tank stays, then i started poking at all the edges and suspicious places and found tow more rusty holes, cut them out and made patches for them too, after a bit more grinding i welded the new patches. Then got back on the drivers side rear wheel arch, cut couple more patches and welded them in place, i left this side little indeded, the plan is for the plastic filler to have something to grab. Then i put on a new graining stone and flatten down all the welds, all this welding and grinding took me most of my day but by now half of the car is solid, which is a achievement.
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made a 36mm "crows foot" wrench to get the chainring spider nut off my road bike. Standard deal of drilling out the corners, cutting out most of the material with the bandsaw and using a file. used a piece of road side scrap that had a hole already in the right place
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it isn't pretty but it does work
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the insides of an e-bike motor if anyone's interested
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