2018 POTD Thread Archive

Today i had the morning off so i decided to give my neighbors an early woke up, so i fire up the grunder and begun flatting down the welds, i put down some styrofoam to protect the panel and keep down the noise but it was still pretty loud. I did managed to get all the welds flat, as far as i think they need to go, i'll do the rest once i'm ready to apply body filler, i plan to do one more round of work once i'm back from work.
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We made 400 lbs of glob today
this happened on my 3D printer once. The nozzle clogged and it extruded PLA to make the print head one big glob. Took me hours of work to get it all cleaned out and back in service and that was only a few square inches of glob.
Sorry to hear about your mess, Any Pictures?
 
Shars delivered my new cutter grinder yesterday. I'm on a grinding bender now, which is an obvious result. First to grind a set of textbook late bits. Here's a thread cutter (top) and a general purpose 35x20 tool. The other is a DE LH/RH rougher. I'm happy with the grinder so far.
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(from mobile)
 
I can say it I did make today only a hour or two. I made a shelf/cabinet for my SG wheels and tools. Just some 1x material I had laying around and some plexiglass. Shelves are all adjustable. Right now I have all my new wheels in there. I should have made it bigger as I have another 50 or so shaped and cupped wheels I’d like to store. It will do for now.
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Shars delivered my new cutter grinder yesterday. I'm on a grinding bender now, which is an obvious result. First to grind a set of textbook late bits. Here's a thread cutter (top) and a general purpose 35x20 tool. The other is a DE LH/RH rougher. I'm happy with the grinder so far.
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8e50f6ec4ac9ef653dda97ec6469b1ed.jpg


(from mobile)
Hi Pontiac428,

Bits look great. Which cutter/grinder did you pick up from Shars?

Thanks, Bruce
 
POTD was adapting a new oil can for the ball oilers on my Grizzly G0709 lathe. I made a screw on tip for the oil bottle that came with the lathe, but I overtightened the cap and broke it . . .

Bought a pump-style can from Tractor Supply. Plan was to make a stainless steel tip to fit over the stock tip. The tip end would have a “C” on the end which would push the ball down and seal to the brass insert holding the ball.

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Started by chucking up a piece of ½” 304 stainless. Faced, center drilled and drilled a #50 hole. Then turned down to 3/8” (didn’t have 3/8” stainless on hand).

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Turned a portion of the end down to 0.230”. The end surface kissed up against the brass detail around the ball and needs to be under the diameter of the brass insert. If the end is larger than the brass insert, and the insert is sub-flush to the surface around it, the tip wouldn’t seal against the brass insert.

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Used a parting tool to cut the tip end down to 0.115”. The hole at the ball oiler is ~0.125”. Idea here is to make the tip so it will fit into the hole for the ball. Then cut a chamfer for a clean transition between the 0.230” diameter and the 0.375” diameter.

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Used a parting tool to cut the 0.115” diameter area to a length of 0.020”. This is the depth the ball will be pushed. Put a dial indicator on the lathe bed with the probe against the carriage. Zero’d out with the tool against the base of the 0.115” area, then moved the carriage toward the tail stock until the indicator read 0.020”. Then parted off the nozzle.

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Flipped the nozzle, faced, center drilled and drilled a hole the same size as the tip of the oil can nozzle. Turned the surface down a tad from 0.375” to 0.350”. I thought I might peen the back side of the nozzle over the oil can’s nozzle, a thinner wall thickness would make that easier to do.

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The oil can nozzle is 5/16” diameter which happens to be the same diameter as a #4 center drill. Plunged a #4 center drill and test fit the oil can’s nozzle.

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Mounted the nozzle in a collet and a square collet block and went to the mill. Removed half of the 0.115” tip so it was a “C”. Idea is the “C” will push the ball down and oil will flow through the removed half of the “C”.

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Picture just below shows how it works. I didn’t peen the new nozzle over the existing one as it was a near press fit as is. It works pretty well, but I was getting some oil leaking because of not holding the tip flat on the brass ball oiler insert. So, time for an engineering change.

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Chucked up the nozzle and turned a groove on the end for slipping an O-ring in place. The O-ring was a really good addition. It seals well enough that I see oil coming out of the opposite end of the oil galleys.

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Thanks for looking,

Bruce
 
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A couple of us are fixing up an old ice fishing shack. Won't be a safe fish in the lake.
Anyway, needed a wood stove, so built one today. Had some pipe, 12 3/4 od with a 1/4 inch wall, shouldn't burn through any time soon. Some REALLY rusty plate made up the rest. So rusty the plasma table had trouble with it, the pitted surface kept deflecting the arc resulting in a rough cut,
Attempted to brush the dust off my rusty stick welding skills, the metal was far to rusty for mig without hours of grinding. Can't remember the last time I had the old Miller stick machine going. Forgot how nice it was to weld with, think its 250 amp DC, the rod just never sticks with that much power behind it.
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Greg
 
Chucked up the nozzle and turned a groove on the end for slipping an O-ring in place. The O-ring was a really good addition. It seals well enough that I see oil coming out of the opposite end of the oil galleys.

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Thanks for looking,

Bruce

Thank you Bruce, the answer I have been looking for but never thought of.
I can never hold the spout flat enough against the oiler to stop oil squirting out.
Todays job sorted.
 
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