2019 POTD Thread Archive

A friend of mine has a Shark CNC router and asked me to make him a better dust collection boot. The original boot was fixed to the Z axis and moved up and down when the cutting height changed. This meant the brush bristles had to be 3" long and flexible so they could reach the top of the material when starting and then squash down as the Z axis lowered. This at times would allow the bristles to be sucked up into the vacuum port of the boot and effectively close it off.

I had made a floating dust boot 8 years ago when I got my CNC router and it has worked very well to this day. The boot with short stiffer bristles always rides on the material surface as the router moves up and down during the program. It also gives some view of the process.

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The exhaust from the router motor is not blown directly into the boot so there is not a positive pressure in the boot to push the sawdust out past the bristles.

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Thanks for looking
Ray
 
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nice! Funny too as my wife bought one of those at a garage sale years ago with a dead battery, so I replaced the old SLA battery with 8 li-ion batteries (2S4P so 8.4V). Now it will pump up a queen air mattres in about a minute and turn camp fires into raging infernoes :)
 
This kind of turned into 2 projects. My father in-law gave me several tools last year and one of them was this old 24" Starrett hight gage that was missing the scribe and scribe clamp. I made the clamp body and sharpened up a 1/4" hss turning tool for a scribe. I wanted the clamp screw to be similar to the original Starrett screws so I needed a knurling tool, and thats another project that I had on the back burner.

I got these 2 gizmos from a couple of automatic slack adjusters.
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Other than making the tool body, pin and a 5/8" hole in the gear thingy, cutting a usable piece off of the gear was risky for everything but an abrasive saw. I didn't want to heat up the part too much so I used my niagra 4"slitting saw, which worked very well.
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I made a test knurl on the opposite end of my drill rod. My first knurl ever. I wondered how deep it could go.
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I lightly knurled my part, then I turned the knurling wheel over to make a nice diamond pattern. That's when I found out that it doesn't work like that. I was a little surprised. It turned out like this though.
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It fit perfectly! Unless you want to measure all the way down to 1".
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But the good news is my project told me exactly how much to remove off the bottom of the clamp.
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Funny how things turn out sometimes.
 
I picked these jerry cans up monday that I found on Craigslist.
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Two of them had rusty innards, so I put a few handfuls of nuts and bolts in them. They each had a turn riding the rotary tumbler.
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They cleaned up nicely.
I got them for filling my torpedo heater with diesel.
 
With those GI cans, if you decide to coat the inside with anything, be aware that there is a vent tube inside that runs from the cap area, across the top. If that gets plugged, then the fuel will gurgle out, with having to let air in, through the filler tube. If you have one of the screw in filler spouts, watch that the gasket does not cover the vent hole.

Also, some older, or aftermarket gaskets will swell up in contact with diesel.
 
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