2021 POTD Thread Archive

I have been using an entire hub assembly as an adapter to balance 8 lug wheels on my old Snap On tire balancer. The tire, rim, hub assy, and the balancers shaft and cones are really heavy, so I thought that I would lighten it up. It was too big for my bandsaw, so I had to think of another way.
The chuck on my rotary table was just big enough to hold the rotor.
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That is an ordinary carbide circular saw blade. I cut .025" per revolution.
 
I finished my 2-1/2" steady rest for my mini-lathe. I used precision stainless steel shielded ball bearings (R188-2Z) from McMaster-Carr. I used OSH Cut to plasma cut the main ring to save me a lot of time machining that part.

I'm very pleased with the results.

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Why don't all steady rests use precision bearing?
 
Why don't all steady rests use precision bearing?
I'll chime in on what I learned on youtube (NOT FIRSTHAND) from multiple utube personalities.
Using a bearing requires an absolutely clean path for the steady rest. With a bearing, the chip will wind up going through the bearing and turned piece, get squished and wind up pushing the turned piece off center.

With a brass finger, it's more like a wiper and reduces the chance of being pushed off center.

Both are valuable, but there are different advantages / risks. I am making a rub version.
 
Plus one on the reasons for brass tips!!! Especially on a follow rest!

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
 
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