Powder coating - have you tried it?

[GaryK]

Hey Dave,

Here are some of my Green parts. OK, maybe a yellow one too.

Great looking tractor Randy!

 

[Kevlar]

Lots of good work here. I just purchased a gun from sears online. Less than $100 and it has a built in fan so you do not need a air source. Saw it on YouTube video by Hossmachine. He does a little demo. I am going to powder goat some folding knife liners and handles with and see how well it holds up. Take care guys...

 

[xalky]

I bought the Harbor freight gun. It seems to work pretty good.

http://www.harborfreight.com/10-30-psi-powder-coating-system-94244.html

I'm no powder coat expert by any means, I've only done a couple of parts so far. The Powder coat colors that Harbor freight sells works fine, but it only comes in a few colors. The good thing about the HF powder coat is that the powder bottles screw right onto the gun. There is one caveat though, It won't work correcrtly if the bottle is full because the pickup tube will be in the powder which is what you dont want. The powder needs to be below the pickup tube so that the powder gets dispersed in the air chamber inside the bottle. Theres an air agitator inside the bottle that blows air through the powder so that you have a dispersed mixture of air and powder coming out of the gun. If the pickup tube is submerged in the powder you end up getting way too much powder coming out of the gun....Ask me how i know!

I ended up paying somewhere around $45 for it on sale with plus a 20% OFF COUPON...You can't beat that with a stick!

 

[RandyM]

I'm not convinced about powder coating's benefits.

Jordan, I by no means am trying to start up an argument. I would just like to address your concerns.

- It can look great when new, but ages badly.

Actually, there are a wide range of powder types with all different types of wear properties. Some do stand up better than others in the elements just as well as paint. For example, look at a car that sits outside on a daily basis and never gets washed or waxed. Same result.

- It doesn't lend itself to "touch up" paint repairs.

You are correct if the damage is down to bare metal. But, if it is just a surface scratch you can sand and buff it just like paint to as good as new.

- Sub-surface corrosion and subsequent flaking of the coating can result.

Again, this is just like any other paint. This is the result of improper preperation.

- Removal for re-coating reportedly isn't easy.

You are correct again Jordan. Some of the powders are really, really tough to remove if done properly. They can also be very abraision resistant. I have also run across some paints that are in the same catagory and just do not want to let go of the metal.

To some extent, the ease with which it can be done might compensate.
I prefer traditional baked enamel - now very expensive alas.

Jordan

I do both, conventional paint and power paint and the one thing I really like about powder is the not having to use thinners for mixing and clean up. It is just dust. Another advantage is once the part cools from the oven it can be instantly put into use. Paint can take days or even weeks to fully cure. Another advantage is I do not have to turn on my fan unit to exhaust any thinner fumes. This lends itself to painting in the winter far better than sucking 10 degree F air into my building. Powder is a process and you have to find what works best for you. I pick and chose what gets powder and what gets paint. Though mostly if it fits in the oven it will likely get powder. It was trial and error for me, and I am still learning what works and what doesn't. But trust me, if I can do it anyone can. I hope this helps to shed a little more light on the subject.

 

[eac67gt]

Randy
If I was prepping a part does it get hit with a prep-solv like you would before painting?

 

[outsider347]

I use it all the time & properly applied, is the toughest, best looking, easiest to maintain finish that I have have ever used

Powder is organic, & much easier to be around than any solvent based coatings

Like any top coat there is only the correct way to use it

I'm doing a resto on a 911 (not my first rodeo ) that will be a driver & all the suspension & running gear will be PC. Way easier than paint & much better long term results

 

[xalky]

Randy
If I was prepping a part does it get hit with a prep-solv like you would before painting?

It should be prepped as if it were to be painted. So it should be dewaxed and degreased.

 

[eac67gt]

Powder coating explained.
:thumbsup:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Powder_coating

 

[eac67gt]

The prepping thought I kind of figured was the same. I would have done it anyway as I do with any finish. I bring up some questions more for those who hesitate to ask questions. It helps other people. Good practice.:thumbzup:

Ed

 

[mopar geek]

I use the system from Caswell plating. The powders from them are far superior to the HF products. Gloss black is so easy a caveman can do it. Powdercoating large aluminum castings are harder because the aluminum off gases and creates bubbles which make the finish look bad. Preheating aluminum helps to prevent this. I have also polished aluminum, then coated with candy colors like lollipop purple and candy apple. If I remember, they recommend a clear coat on top of the candy. Of course, I have always sandblasted any item before coating. Caswell also has kits for nickel, cadmium, and several other things, I even think silver and gold. I haven't been to there website in years.