Pretty sure I need a mill part 2 cleanup

[DeadGuyAle]

pulled the motor pulley off. Required a little bit of prybar work as there is no way to use a standard puller but was not that difficult to get off. Little surprised that the key is there. There are also two set screws In the bottom pulley.
Bit more dust removal and all I had time for

 

[pontiac428]

Me and a few others on this site have done a few mods to make the Rong Fu more reliable. There are a few big threads and lots of scattered posts on these improvements, but you have to dig around.

Here's a tip that I wanted to share since your first picture posts. I don't think head alignment jigs are necessary, but the head bolt upgrade made a world of difference:

RF-30 Clone Head Alignment Guide

Rob,- Now you have me going again, mine has two belts. Does three mean you have a power quill down drive?

www.hobby-machinist.com

 

[DeadGuyAle]

Me and a few others on this site have done a few mods to make the Rong Fu more reliable. There are a few big threads and lots of scattered posts on these improvements, but you have to dig around.

Here's a tip that I wanted to share since your first picture posts. I don't think head alignment jigs are necessary, but the head bolt upgrade made a world of difference:

RF-30 Clone Head Alignment Guide

Rob,- Now you have me going again, mine has two belts. Does three mean you have a power quill down drive?

www.hobby-machinist.com

Thanks I had ran across this and lost track of it!

 

[WCraig]

Me and a few others on this site have done a few mods to make the Rong Fu more reliable. There are a few big threads and lots of scattered posts on these improvements, but you have to dig around.

Here's a tip that I wanted to share since your first picture posts. I don't think head alignment jigs are necessary, but the head bolt upgrade made a world of difference:

RF-30 Clone Head Alignment Guide

Rob,- Now you have me going again, mine has two belts. Does three mean you have a power quill down drive?

www.hobby-machinist.com

I also had a problem with head bolts but my round column mill/drill is a bit different:



Mine has an intermediate casting between the base and column. Four bolts are supposed to attach the column portion via threaded holes in the intermediate casting. The former owner had stripped the threads on one hole. All of the other threaded holes were a pretty sloppy fit on the bolts (one was particularly loose). Eventually, I drilled them out to the next larger size since there was room inside the intermediate casting for a regular nut. I think the special nuts and washers mentioned above might have been a better solution if they would fit.

Craig

 

[Steve-F]

I have never seen one like that one.......amazing how many variations of these machines exist.

 

[DeadGuyAle]

Ar-170 covered dropping the spindle https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/my-adventures-with-my-rf-30.87976/
in his very well documented series.

Shame additional detail on removing the ret spring cover.



Once you released tension a little jiggle and it will come off. It’s a skeleton key hole in the spring so wiggle and turn

 

[DeadGuyAle]

Got the spindle out. pretty straight forward process, support the spindle, couple of hex head bolts to remove the fine down feed assembly, take out the gib adjuster and crank the head up

 

[DeadGuyAle]

And some cleaning

 

[DeadGuyAle]

Some more progress


Bearings don’t look to be packed well so will ponder if I want to get into pulling cleaning and repacking.

 

[DeadGuyAle]

Last few bits done and ready to start putting things back together!










fine feed gears are fairly well sealed so will use grease to relube.
everything else is going to get a slightly sticky oil lube, can’t see a reason for grease on the column or rail.

One observation
Other than the lock nut for the column gib and the idler pulley nuts, nothing was much more than finger tight at best.