Problem removing arbor on Criterion boring head

You could probably flip a turning tool upside down and run the lathe in reverse taking some healthy cuts. That would probably be a little safer.
 
Why can't you use the straight shank in a 1" endmill holder ?
 
mmcmdl said:
Why can't you use the straight shank in a 1" endmill holder ?
Click to expand...
You can. If R8, the shank will only go about an inch (edit: 1.2") into the 1" collet before it hits the step. That is no real issue, because all the clamping gets done in the last 1" anyway. Short shanks (1 to 1-1/4" long) make for easy tool changing, and with no down side.
 
Last edited:
With the boring head info printed on the shank. There is a good chance it is an integrated shank.
 
I put shank in the lathe chuck, tightened the gib, stuck a 3/4 x 6 pin in the side hole. Then smacked the pin a couple of times with a hammer, came right loose.
 
If that boring head is a Criterion I don't think they ever made an integrated shank.
 
The 1 in shank is quite long and would need to be cut to 1 1/2 in long to fit an end mill adapter or a R8 1 in collet. I thought about it, but decided to buy the R8 shank, before trying to undo the 1 in shank, ha !

The R8 1 in collet would be too fragile, I would assume for a 3 in boring head.

I tried to use the 3 jaw chuck and a 9 in long boring bar, whacking it with a dead blow hammer, but the shank was rotating in the jaws.
 
Try my suggestion I bet you get it out.
Max R8 collet is 7/8", no?
 
Last edited:
ddickey said:
Try my suggestion I hey you get it out.
Max R8 collet is 7/8", no?
Click to expand...
My R8 set goes to 1", but for only 1.2" deep into the collet. All the clamping on a R8 collet is near the nose end.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top