Problems with brand new 1440e-lb cross feed and taper attachment

The next picture in the manual says a lot more then what you see here.Don't follow the manual its not even close. The manual calls for parts in the lead screw that don't even exist. part numbers 619 (cover) and 625 (screws) aren't even used
ok, that is just sad.

The picture from your manual that you posted is the diagram from the grizzly G0709 manual (the lathe I have)... same picture, same part numbers, everything. Hope there isn't any plagerism going on here.... of parts of manuals for the wrong equipment.
:nono:

...yeah, I know, the same manufacturer probably builds both the 1440E, the G0709G, and the G750G. But Grizzly manuals are written in house in Bellingham, so it seems strange that their illustrations show up in a PM manual.

Look at the grizzly manual for the G0750G. That appears to functionally be the same machine you have... and a quick look at the diagram for the cross slide shows the exact component you have in your pictures (for the non-taper attachment parts)

g0750g_m.pdf

And below is a picture of the taper attachment dial and notice its key way way to large..
The normal setup (as NOT documented well in your manual) doesn't show how a taper attachment looks. You are trying to attach a taper attachment on your machine, correct?

The taper attachment lead screw needs to have a long slot for the keyway, as the lead screw physically shifts under the pull of the taper attachment. I would expect the keys not to be compatible (look at the length of the key PN #6, in the diagram below, it has to be long to maintain engagement as the taper moves the lead screw).

Note: key stock is available everywhere, you can probably run out to the hardware store or local metal supply and buy some and cut your own. No need to wait for fedex.

Here is a good place to look for reference, the product manual for the taper attachment for the Grizzly G0750G. The diagram in it also almost exactly corresponds to the pictures you have shown.

Note that it discusses what you have found out... that the taper attachment hand wheel is different than the normal hand wheel, so this is by design, not sloppiness. This is because it has to incorporate the stub shaft that allows for the lead screw to slide in and out of it, and also that the taper attachment is manufactured to fit on three different lathes, with minor swapping of parts.
G750G_taper.png

http://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/t26300_m.pdf

As I have said before, Grizzly does its homework and makes nice manuals... which serve as a nice reference library for people who buy similar equipment elsewhere. They also are a nice source of spare parts, as they warehouse a significant quantity in the US, where smaller importers frequently are unable to get specific parts for months.

I have had one more problem spring up on me as i was walking around the back of the machine i notice this!!! I just hope this isn't going to be a problem child...

Just tap your lathe sharply with a newspaper. It will quickly learn to go outside first. :D
Not an uncommon problem with this model of lathe (regardless of who is selling it).


G750G_taper.png
 
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Well well Mr. tmarks11 apparently you are a big fan of grizzley products. I have tried to be a nice person
and ignore your first post but now you just went to far buy calling me a plagiarist Sure i had used grizzleys
page from there manual online because it was convenient for me to cut and paste it. There is no difference
in these pictures besides the number 6 and they changed a few of the part numbers.
On the right my diagram from my lathe manual on the left grizzleys 0709.

grizzley-manual-pm-manual.jpg

So for all who is to know in the land of the internet and
this thread i do getting down on one knee solemnly apologize to
grizzley and to the number 6 that i posted that picture
out of haste and with no intent of any malicious act.
Once again i am truly sorry. No further reply is necessary as
i bow my head in shame and banish myself from this thread.

grizzley-manual-pm-manual.jpg
 
I have tried to be a nice person and ignore your first post but now you just went to far buy calling me a plagiarist Sure i had used grizzleys page from there manual online because it was convenient for me to cut and paste it.

sorry for the misunderstanding, I have no issues with you using Grizzly manuals (indeed, if you read my posts above, I have recommended using them like 3 or 4 times).

My comments were aimed at PM, and if PM was using pictures from Grizzly manuals (which I believe are written in Bellingham, WA, not at the factory), than that would be plagiarism. Not your problem, it is theirs. It is also sad that the PM manual has diagrams of someone else's machine (since it does't match yours).

Your use and posting is perfectly fine and above board. Sorry for not being clear. Notice I posted 4 pictures from grizzly manuals myself.

Please re-read my posts, and don't ignore them. I tried to give you some pretty clear advice on how to fix things and provide some recommendations. I have no beef with PM machines (other than their manuals), and came close to buying one.. the only reason I didn't is that I have a Grizzly store a few hours from my house, which is pretty convenient, and decided that if I had issues with my lathe, it would be easier to resolve when I drive by their store 2 or 3 times a month when I travel on business.

Again, I recommend you look at the link for the Grizzly taper manual, I think it shows all the parts and pieces you have.

As for being a "big Grizzly fan", I wouldn't describe myself as such. I have a Grizzly lathe, but I am not altogether happy with it. It has some ( a lot!) rough edges, vibrates more than I would like, and is challenging to get a good finish on. It is what it is: a cheap Chinese lathe dressed up with the word "gunsmith". I knew going into it that it was a severe compromise; the jury is still out on whether or not the compromise was worth it. I still have some upgrades to do to see if it will do what I need it to do.
 
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