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- Thread starter mac1911
- Start date
- Joined
- Apr 23, 2018
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- 6,520
For certain it would. Axles and flanges are alloys typically in the 41x0 range, which is precisely what I would choose if making a chuck adapter.
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- Jun 7, 2013
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If, you are talking about a spindle/chuck adaptor, or chuck backplate, the answer is no, it should be cast iron, steel against steel on a threaded spindle, if steel is used, thread galling is just a matter of time.
My experience is that they're not good material. I havn't cut up every axle in the world, but I've cut up my share. They were once a good mid to high carbon steel, but they're selectively hardened, and (I presume) work hardened around the stud holes. They'll cut beautifully in "some" areas, and other areas just eat tools for breakfast.
As for the application, they're very thin, and not as true as you'd think they might be. You'll be cutting ALL of it. You're not going to "save" any factory surfaces.
After that, I'd still be nervous, as benmychree said, about galling, especialy on a threaded. If it's threaded, careful and dilligent oiling would be required every time, and it'd have to be refreshed fairly often. When galling happens (which it won't most times, but is in the very real realm of possibility), it's not only gonna be a "stuck" chuck, but there will be damage to the lathe spindle, and it's not the kind of damage you can avoid by advanced removal techniques. Galling is literally cold welded metal. No amount of heat or oil is other stuck thread extraction kung fu going to fix that.
If you had a different project in mind, an actual axle shaft (rear drive, solid axle) can offer up a very nice chunk of high (or highish) carbon steel in the shaft area inboard of the bearing race (or outer spline in a full floater), and outboard of the inner splnes. That area tends to be pretty workable. The spline and flange end though.... Very difficult to work with.
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- Apr 23, 2018
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I call BS on the galling issue. If 4130 spontaneously cold-welds itself to harder steels, how in the f**k is it that splined axles are able to be used against hardened differential side gears? Again, just like galvanic potential and hydrogen enbrittlement, there's much alarm over what amounts to very little in the real world.
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2013
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- 4,306
I didn't have any issues with a steel backplate galling on my Atlas and my friend hasn't on his Sheldon. Maybe if the spindle and backplate are made out of stainless steel?
- Joined
- Mar 9, 2018
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- 465
+1 to everything @pontiac428 said.
I’ve made lathe spindle nose adapters from cast iron, mild steel, and carbon steel.
Never had any issues with any of them, in a hobby environment anyway.
I’ve made lathe spindle nose adapters from cast iron, mild steel, and carbon steel.
Never had any issues with any of them, in a hobby environment anyway.
The "trick" is to insure the threads are LOOSE.
the alignment is the interface of the register, not the threads.
If you have a very close fit there is more of a chance of stupid stuff.
Spin on the factory chuck and it is a bit loose until it seats.
Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
the alignment is the interface of the register, not the threads.
If you have a very close fit there is more of a chance of stupid stuff.
Spin on the factory chuck and it is a bit loose until it seats.
Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2013
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what is referred to the register (the bit of unthreaded spindle between the threads and the face of the spindle) does nothing for the chuck alignment, it's all in the threads and face of the spindle. THink about it, the only way what is called the register can actually act as a register is if there is a near interference fit between it and the chuck backplate, which there isn't and nor would you want there to be.
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Any dirt or poor contact and my forge welds don't stick 
. So, I think steel to steel is pretty safe. In my experience, the only times I have had trouble with threaded chucks is when they have been allowed to sit (and rust). Also, a crash can cause a threaded chuck to stick, especially one which breaks the back gear. I have had good luck with putting a tiny bit of oil on the threads each time I put on a chuck. It takes only a moment if the can is nearby.
. So, I think steel to steel is pretty safe. In my experience, the only times I have had trouble with threaded chucks is when they have been allowed to sit (and rust). Also, a crash can cause a threaded chuck to stick, especially one which breaks the back gear. I have had good luck with putting a tiny bit of oil on the threads each time I put on a chuck. It takes only a moment if the can is nearby.