Protecting lens of add-on LED lights in blast cabinet

After running into the same problem I started using a LED flood light on the outside mounted on the upper left corner of the window. No more frosted light lens to maintain. If the window gets frosted, well, you needed to change that anyhow, right?
 
I just installed a cheap led under-cabinet light from Amazon yesterday. It's waterproof, which helps keep dust out.

Oeegoo LED Light Bar 2ft Shop Light 5000K Ceiling Light Fixture, 30w Daylight White Tube Light with Plug Waterproof Linkable Under Cabinet Lighting Closet Light for Workbench Bathroom Basement Kitchen https://www.amazon.com/dp/B093T4H5N...abc_HTG6CTPPV7Z29B7AET7G?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

It came with steel mounting brackets, which I installed with some m6 bolts/nuts, and a waterproof rubber plug/connector.

The plan is to leave the mounting brackets and wiring in place, then every couple years when it gets frosted I can buy the same light, which should swap in without much fuss. I'm on my second one in 8 years. 30$ every 4 years is no problem.


 
The multitude of little 4mm nuts and bolts that hold the glass/bezel in these cheap cabinets makes it a chore to change the glass. Today I put in rivnuts and thumb screws. It's a 10 minute job now to swap in a new 2ft x 1ft glass plate.

 
If you add some window screen on the inside held up by magnets it helps the light or glass from frosting up so fast and doesn't block the view much at all.
 
hman said:
@Boswell - I'm just wondering why frosting the surface of an LED would be an issue. The same amount of light will still get out. OK, it might get a bit more more diffuse, but you don't need tightly focused light inside a blast cabinet. General, diffuse illumination is what you want. And if you're thinking of "bulbs" or "fluorescent tube" type lamps, the good news is that they won't burn out just because you get pinholes in them. There's no hot filament or gas discharge in an LED lamp shaped to fit a "traditional" fixture. Of course, you wouldn't want to point the blast gun right at them for extended periods of time ...

PS - I've installed numerous LED light strips for a friend who owns a store and wanted to illuminate the merchandise. Love 'em! One especially nice thing about them is that they're electrically safe - 12 volts DC. I power them with wall warts bought at Goodwill. Two comments:
1. The "peel and stick" adhesive isn't too good, especially for extended periods of time. I always add dabs of "GO2" adhesive every few inches along both sides.
2. I've seen at least one "outdoor" grade LED light strip, fully factory coated with some kind of clear rubbery material, where the coating started to discolor. It eventually blackened. I'd strongly prefer @Bi11Hudson's idea of mounting the light strip in a fluorescent lamp protector. Maybe mount the light strip on a narrow piece of metal or wood, secure it with GO2, then slip this into the protector when the glue has set.
Click to expand...
Get the fully environmentally sealed strips at the auto parts store. The make them for lighting the underside of cars.

Also, you can get 20 bayonet style bulbs for about $20 designed to replace turn signals and such. Pull the socket out of a trashed turn signal, power with a wall-wart (I keep a drawer full of 'em), and just slide a clear water bottle over it.
 
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