H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
- Mar 25, 2013
I'm gratified to hear they are getting used. I am very happy with my cans and they work well.
I like the smoother base myself, as it would clean up much easier. I just watched your YouTube video. I really like your style and now I feel the need to add this to my list of things to make. I like how, true to your channel name, you used AL since it was what you had on hand. But that has me thinking: I have about 20' of used copper pipe that I cut into roughly 6" segments for melting in my backyard metal furnace. Maybe I should make mine out of copper.Can't decide which base I like the best so I have a thread going on the YouTube Machinist group on Facebook. Right now it's pretty much a tie.
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I think copper would be a great choice. Thanks for the comments.I like the smoother base myself, as it would clean up much easier. I just watched your YouTube video. I really like your style and now I feel the need to add this to my list of things to make. I like how, true to your channel name, you used AL since it was what you had on hand. But that has me thinking: I have about 20' of used copper pipe that I cut into roughly 6" segments for melting in my backyard metal furnace. Maybe I should make mine out of copper.
Thanks a bunch getting started soonHere are the prints for the pump oil can I made, pictured below.
Many thanks to Bill H for the time and effort he spent drawing these up from my crude diagrams.
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Here is a link to the build thread that has a lot of detailed information and assembly instructions:
don't solder, Tig weld itIt works great! No leaks at all! One of them loses prime after it sits for a few days and it takes a couple of pumps to get it going. I think if I polished the inlet valve seat that would correct this minor problem. Obviously the brass tarnishes so if you really want a nice one do it in stainless if you have the capability. May actually be cheaper than brass but the soldering is a pain.
I can change the lines from grey into black, which makes a usable print. If there is interest I can redo the set of plans this way and post them here as pdf.I would gladly convert prints to metric but I do not have the originals anymore. My hard drive had crashed since then and I lost a lot of my files. I would have also made sure all lines were bolder.
Thanks Bill hope your feeling better. I'm getting things lined up back to the surgeon on the 21 of Sept. Then he,ll remove an old stimulator that's been dead for ten years. Mri then back to see what he can do . I'm praying for my fellow machinist in need.Just as a note. You may notice some of the text in the lower blocks of the print border do not look right. That happened when I converted to pdf for some strange reason. But if there is anything not legible on any print let me know and I can get you the information needed.
I think you should use stainless in the kitchen. Also, the reason you have air bubbles in you alum is that it needs a top cover of lite salt when you melt it to keep the alum from oxidizing. make sure it is lite salt, don't remember why but regular salt will not work.I also have a bunch of brass that I have collected, Some I have melted down into small ingots, I have done some alum also but that had a bunch of air bubbles in it, Thus unable to use it for much of anything. I figured I could do a few of the parts by making molds for them, But have to come up with the brass tubing for the body etc.
I was thinking the red brass for the top, and bottom at least, (actually though about making some brass ones for wife's cooking oil as well)
If I have to purchase everything I am thinking Stainless but I have not worked with it before.