Purchasing a Monarch 10EE Round Dial

[vettebob]

I found a monarch that has been partially dis assembled it was used in it's previous life to turn motor commutators. Minimum owner will take is $1000
It has taper attachment, 3 and 4 as well as dog chuck and collet closer and collets. Advice appreciated. here are some pics I'm driving 700 miles in the morning to look at it. Bob

 

[DMS]

If the drivetrain is in good shape, it looks like all the pieces to the carriage/apron are there. For a $1000, would be a good deal if it's not beat to hell. For a 700 mile trip, I hope it works out for you

 

[Cal Haines]

I found a monarch that has been partially dis assembled it was used in it's previous life to turn motor commutators. Minimum owner will take is $1000
It has taper attachment, 3 and 4 as well as dog chuck and collet closer and collets. Advice appreciated. here are some pics I'm driving 700 miles in the morning to look at it. Bob

Obviously you recognize that there's a lot of work involved in putting this old girl back together. That said, $1000 is OK for what's in the pictures. If worst comes to worst, you can sell the tooling, part it out and come out OK.

This was an ELSR (Electric LeadScrew Reverse) machine. That’s a sought-after option.

What I'm not seeing in the photos:

• Feedrod
• Cross-feed dial
• Taper attachment draw-bar
• Apron sump (oil pan)
• Apron pump
• ELSR control rod and related stops and levers
• Collet closer draw-tube

If you're missing something like the cross-feed dial, you would have a real problem. I don't know if you'll see this before you finish there, but you'll want to take your time and make sure that you get ALL the parts and have an agreement that the seller will look for any missing parts that he may have once you get her home.

On the plus side, it's well tooled

• 3-jaw chuck
• 4-jaw chuck
• 5" dog drive plate
• 10" face plate
• Steady rest
• Follower rest
• Collet nose and about 40 collets

The above is worth at least $700, depending on condition. Check the backs of the chucks and the bottoms of the rests, if they are stamped with the machine’s serial number you have original tooling (it's unusual to see original tooling and a full set says a lot about the kind of care the machine had over the decades). The machine’s serial number should be on a rectangular plate on the base, under the tailstock end and is also stamped on the right end of the tailstock flat way.

Don't worry about the motor/generator drive. They are very reliable and robust. What problems they have tend to be minor. I've helped a lot of guys get them running.

Good luck and have a safe trip!

Cal

 

[RWL]

I'd want to know why it was apart. A machine in pieces is worth slightly more than the scrap metal value in my book since you don't know that all the pieces are there.

 

[vettebob]

Here's my update I am the new owner of a 10 EE It is going to take me a while to sort everything that came with the lathe. It appears to be complete.
The previous owner purchased the lathe from a company that was bought out. He had plans to restore the lathe and even ordered the manual by serial # from Monarch. He got divorced and is selling his house with workshop and is moving back to New York. That being said only the apron and crosslide and the elsr switch cover were removed. It looks like the motor generator was rebuilt not to long ago. This Lathe appears to be complete with every possible accessory except for a toolholder and Turret. I will post pics as I unload and sort everything. My first goal is to reinstall the elsr and see if the lathe runs I think my friend has 3 phase power in his shop.

The ways saddle and cross slide are all worn the spindle turns very smoothly with the belts removed. Robert

 

[drs23]

Here's my update I am the new owner of a 10 EE It is going to take me a while to sort everything that came with the lathe. It appears to be complete.
The previous owner purchased the lathe from a company that was bought out. He had plans to restore the lathe and even ordered the manual by serial # from Monarch. He got divorced and is selling his house with workshop and is moving back to New York. That being said only the apron and crosslide and the elsr switch cover were removed. It looks like the motor generator was rebuilt not to long ago. This Lathe appears to be complete with every possible accessory except for a toolholder and Turret. I will post pics as I unload and sort everything. My first goal is to reinstall the elsr and see if the lathe runs I think my friend has 3 phase power in his shop.

The ways saddle and cross slide are all worn the spindle turns very smoothly with the belts removed. Robert

Bob are you planning a restoration project or "just get it running a make chips"? Just asking because I love following the resto threads and seeing the before and after pics!

Thanks for sharing.

 

[Cal Haines]

Robert,

I'm glad to hear that you bought the lathe. I hate to see a 10EE go to the scrap yard.

What's the serial number and build date?

Cal

 

[RWL]

The ways saddle and cross slide are all worn the spindle turns very smoothly with the belts removed. Robert

Don't forget the scraping class that Richard King is running in PA in December. It sounds like the machine would benefit from it.

 

[vettebob]

The lathe was manufactured feb 1944 It has a Westinghouse tag on it I'm guessing the original purchaser. The Motor generator looks like a recent rebuild commutators are smooth no ridges or arc pitting everything has new brushes. I reinstalled the elsr . The spindle does have a little play in it, hopefully it can be adjusted out the tach is stuck I'll have to play with it later. All contacts on every relay need burnishing to remove oxidation. This is probably going to turn into a partial restoration. One of the screws for the D1-3 cam lock is missing. Where can I source a camlock kit?
I have some 10 weight spindle oil for my Bridgeport will this work for the spindle bearings?
My schematic of the power contactor is slightly different than the lathe. I'm working on figuring it out. L1, L2and L3 are the same. L4 wire and a wire piggy backed on to T4 feeds out of the lathe through the same conduit as L1-3. It makes no sense why this was done First pic of contactor. My wiring diagram shows a micro switch in lsr housing (what is that) should go to L4 and a wire should jumper from L1 to L4.

 

[vettebob]

My wiring diagram EE-3320 does not match what is wired. I figured out why it was wired differently I have a 2 phase motor generator. Now I'm stumped can I make it run off single phase electricity. Robert