I realize it costs lots to have small numbers of things made and all but that's a bit excessive for a chunk of stamped tin.. then to come back and rape someone on the shipping as well....what did it really cost to ship? 3bucks? its nice that parts are available but lets get serious logan
I for one, am very grateful that Scott Logan is still around selling parts for their machines. Parts you can not get anywhere else. I am also one that actually understands what it means to doing business and the bills he has to pay. I think he is very reasonable on parts. Also, it is not just the cost of the post office he has to cover, but the package materials and his time spent packaging it up. And one more thing, he is more than willing to help you with any technical issues regarding fixing or operating these machines. Keep up the good work Scott. You'll get no bashing from me.
Oh and Bear, you done a great job on the resto. Make sure we get to see all your handy work. I actually wire brushed the knurl and polished the end of the handle knobs on mine.
$18.00 sounds a little high for domestic shipping of that part but guessing $3.00 is as bad or worse in the other direction. If Logan uses either UPS or FedEx for shipping, their minimum weight increment is 1 pound. And their charge for 1 pound going anywhere INCONUS is several times $3.00. USPS is cheaper up to 15 or 20 pounds but even First Class Mail with insurance is about double $3.00. Most of you are probably unaware of it because so many companies have jacked up their prices and offer "free" shipping. But shipping costs to vendors have skyrocketed since 2008. Several carriers increase prices every 6 months.
I soaked the knobs in Evaporust overnight to remove the rust... and they turned green!? So I bead blasted them clean and clearcoated them... they look pretty good now, I'll see how long that lasts once I get the lathe finished and running.
You have any suggestions on getting the lead screw bolt off? I'm trying to avoid marring the shaft, so I made some some wood vice patterns to match the shaft and clamped it in the vice. Still spun. Put some rubber in, still spun. Only thing I can think to do at this point is torch the nuts and do the same thing. My other plan is to remove the opposing shaft first and impact it off through that shaft channel. Kinda curious how it gets tightened at factory.
I'm trying to restore 9B-28-1. I looked up your model number and realized it was an 11", so possibly quite a bit different.
I agree with 682, should just loosen as there should be no need for massive torque, spray with penetrating fluid, then then apply light heat, then find a way to bind the shaft to prevent it from turning.
I'm halfway into a similar project. Does anyone know of a way to add a clutch or shear pin between the lead screw and gear box?? I doubt I'll make the same mistake again, but there's probably other ways to crunch the gears, and having a "fusible link" seems like cheap insurance.