Quarantine Projects!

Weldo

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Update on the lard experiment... Total bust.

The solvent strained out and left the solid lard in the filters in all three cases. The mineral spirit sample was the softest solid.

The solid lard left from the acetone was just like normal lard, solid at room temp, but smelled of acetone. Some tiny particles remained floating in the filtered acetone but it's unclear if these were solid lard crystals or oil droplets.

So I think I'm done with chemistry for a while! On to other stuff.
 

hman

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You can pretty safely wipe down just about any surface with isopropyl alcohol. I read an article recently about how to sanitize inside a car. The article said that automakers use isopropyl for cleanup, so it's safe for surfaces inside the car
 

Winegrower

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I am finding that an apocalypse really cuts down on interruptions in the shop. It was an opportunity to knock out this simple aluminum box, it’s a single cell calorimeter for a science program I’m doing. I drilled and bored out a 1.75” cavity with a flat bottom, with a milled channel underneath as a wire feed path. It’s tapped at 5/16-18, and I used stainless thread inserts (not shown in this picture) for #8 screws. This has to run at 350 degrees C, where the aluminum tends to stick to the screws without inserts. F2D4AC5B-24EF-461C-9A86-F1F6B428BEC8.jpeg
 

Weldo

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Here's a fun project! Build a pop pop boat!

Here's a great website with very detailed instructions.


I built one a few years ago so it's not strictly a quarantine project but it did inspire me to play with it again!

Some pics.

I built mine with a diaphragm type boiler. I forget where I got the idea but there's pretty much two types of boilers you can make with one of these. The diaphragm type or the coil type.

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The tubes are just some common 1/4" copper.

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Here you can see the shape of the boiler. It's a very shallow dish that was pounded out from some copper sheeting. Two holes are drilled and the tubes are inserted and soldered such that they do not touch the diaphragm on top.

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The diaphragm is made from a thinner piece of copper. Think soda can thickness. People have used soda can but I wasn't having luck soldering it. I was lucky enough to find some really thin copper flashing tape at work.

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It runs off of a tealight candle, though to get enough heat output I had to melt a few down and harvest the wicks to make a three wicked super candle!

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To make it work you must first fill the boiler with water. It's easiest to just take some water in your mouth and transfer it to one of the exhaust pipes. When water comes out the other pipe hold your fingers over both pipes as you place it in the water. Once the two outlets are below the water's surface the water will remain in the boiler. Now you place the lit candle under the boiler.

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Here's a quick video of it underway in the old laundry tub. I need a bigger pool!

View attachment Pop Pop Boat.mp4
 

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Weldo

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Hey @Winegrower, how did you finish the bottom of the box? Since you said you drilled it then bored it out, did you have to take some kind of final facing pass on the bottom surface?

Looks super cool by the way! Custom made scientific instrument!
 

Winegrower

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Weldo, thanks. The process was to first drill a pilot drill, to a depth less than the finished cavity. Say, a 1/2” drill. Then, I used a center cutting 3/4” end mill, down to the final depth, leaving so far a flat bottom but still too small. Then I have a 1.25” end mill, so I enlarged the hole to 1.25”, and milled down to the final depth. This still maintained a flat bottom, now at 1.25” diameter. Finally I used a boring head, boring out to 1.75”, and the boring bar leaves a flat bottom, presto it’s done.

Yes, it would have been easy with a 1.75” center cutting end mill, but no. I could have skipped the drilling, but I did not have a center cutting end mill with deep enough cut, so I had to drill out the center. The bottom is flat, but there is a small shallow depression in the center from the pilot drill. Not important in this application.

The length of this answer reflects the ponderous thinking, trying to find tools and sequences that would work. You guys who have every tool and know exactly where they are, are probably unfamiliar with this. :)
 

devils4ever

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From the reports I’ve heard , the virus can live on hard or shiny surfaces for up to three days . Maybe just let the steel sit for three days .
Yeah, I think I'll let it be for a while before using it.
 

Weldo

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The length of this answer reflects the ponderous thinking, trying to find tools and sequences that would work.
Figuring out the set ups and especially the order of operations is definitely one of the hardest parts.
 

Weldo

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Got my bench grinder all balanced up! I used the kit from Oneway Manufacturing. It's very well designed and easy to use.

Oneway Balancing Kits

The grinder has never run this smoothly and quietly. First I balanced the wheels but then they were still running slightly eccentrically. So I mounted each one on the lathe with a piece of 1/2" all thread in a collet chuck and faced them off with a dresser held in a tool holder on the carriage. It trued them up very well. Then I re-balanced and mounted the wheels.

Here's a few pictures of the tool rests I made a few months ago. I don't really like the design, it's kind of hard to adjust.

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I also took a quick video of the grinder running! It used to walk all over the place if not clamped down. I plan to use this for grinding HSS bits only and I don't really have space in the shop to mount it permanently so not having to clamp it down every time I bring it out to use it is wonderful.

View attachment Balanced Grinder.mp4
 

devils4ever

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Well, I decided not to wait because I wanted to use the steel stock today.

So, I washed, rinsed, dried, and WD-40'ed all my steel stock. I have to say that the stock was filthy. I knew it was dirty, but I never guessed how bad it was. In any case, I guess it okay to use now and hopefully the WD-40 will prevent any rust. It was a lot of work!
 

Weldo

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You should be fine with that. Was it square tubes? They are notoriously filthy with some heavy black oil.
 

Weldo

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Well here's a prime example of what happens when you have too much time on your hands...

You spend over an hour making tiny parts that you could easily purchase for pennies from almost any store in the country.

I needed some snap swivels for model rocket parachutes. I had a few swivels but no snaps so I got to work!

Here was my inspiration, mostly the big silver one.

1585340201079.png

The three on the left are made from 0.030" stainless MIG wire. The two on the right are made from an old DIY fishing spinner kit. The idea is that you'd take a swivel wire like on the far right there and add some beads, spoons and a treble hook at the end to make your own lures. The wire is brass.

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Close up of the stainless ones. The left was the first one I did and the right is the last. The middle one is like that cousin you have that "Ain't quite right." I've named it Cletus. The last one is pretty good.

EM520596.JPG

Overall they came out well. Ultimate strength is quite strong. Easily strong enough for a small model rocket. They don't spring open very well though since the wire is not a hardened spring steel.

These are the brass wire ones from the spinner kit. They seem strong enough but are even less springy than the stainless ones.

EM520597.JPG

This was an exercise in patience I'll tell ya! All I used were two pairs of small needle nose pliers and some side cutters.
 

Weldo

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Knocked out another small one!

I've been working on a straight edge for my old Whitney bench shear for a while. I made a bar, drilled and tapped the shear and picked up some shoulder bolts. Unfortunately between inaccuracies from the hole drilling, when the bar was bolted on it was well out of square.

It was maybe 3/16" out of square over 6 inches. I didn't feel like grinding it so I used the milling attachment on the lathe. I just worked to a scribed line, no indication at all.

As far as milling set ups go this is probably in the "Do not do" section of the machinist handbook. Because i had such limited cross slide travel I had to let over half the part float out in space with no support. It actually went very well though. I took very light cuts.

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This is what I was aiming for. Straight edge guide for the shear.

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The bar has a tiny bit of play when bolted on. Even though I used shoulder bolts and reamed the holes to 0.375". After it snugged it onto the shear I started making test cuts in some 16ga scrap, making micro adjustments with a dead blow hammer.

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It came in pretty darned close to perfect!

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Youtuber This Old Tony made a similar modification to a bench shear where he milled the shear body down and made a nice perfectly flat table to hold the stock you're cutting. I like the idea but I don't have the equipment to make that cut. In my case the shear body tapers downward slightly to the left as you stand in front of it. It'd be nice if it were flat though.
 

C-Bag

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You are really keepin' busy Weldo! Good job. I have 3 grinders. A 6" carbide grinder copy of a Baldor and a Jet 6" with a wire wheel and MultiTool. Those are mounted to my work station toolbox. My 8" bench grinder that I did the Oneway balance on doesn't have a permanent place and the tool rests on it are horrible. But it's great for roughing in tool bits. I'm thinking of a base plate with one of the Harold Hall type tool rest like this one and doing like you and clamping to a bench when needed but in storage otherwise.
 

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Weldo

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Thanks man! These are all things I've been wanting to do for a while. When this quarantine is over my little workshop is gonna be standin' tall!

I'd actually like to have another bench grinder too. I want one set up with a wire on one side and a cloth buffing wheel on the other. It would come in handy a lot I think.

That rest design looks cool. Kind of complicated but very easily adjustable. I never considered a rest that doesn't bolt to the grinder itself. That frees up many design constraints!
 

C-Bag

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I agree, I don't think I'd need the micro adjusters that rest has.

I'd never done any buffing/polishing before so was not sure I'd need it until I decided to modify my cheap HF body hammers. I happened upon a kit MultiTool sells that includes something I'd never heard of, a felt polishing belt. It has several different grits of belts and disk's along with different rouge sticks for the belt. That MultiTool has turned out to be a very handy and versatile unit. I took the cheap body hammer and radiused the face and sides of the face with the grit belts then used the felt belt to polish it. I was shocked how good it came out. It's super quick and easy to change belts on the MultiTool. A before and after.
 

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Weldo

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Cool! Got any pics or info on that thing? I mainly wanted access to a buffer of some sort for sharpening stuff like chisels and knives. A polished edge is about the finest edge you can get.
 

C-Bag

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I assume you mean the kit? The MultiTool is just a bolt on belt sander with a disk as seen on the box. Pricey now but not when I bought it originally.
 

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C-Bag

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I took off the tool rest/table off the disk sander part because it was not very easy to adjust and was not all that useful.
 

Weldo

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I just found their website. I don't think I have need of the machine part since I have a belt sander, but their site is a great source of belts!

My sander takes 2" x 48" belts and most places want to sell you a pack of 10 belts all the same grit. On Multi-Tool's site you can buy individuals and mix and match. Not to mention that polishing belt, I'm eyeing that up now!
 

C-Bag

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When I bumbled on to mine it was a floor model in the welding shop I used to frequent and they were closing it out. My old HF grinder had given up the ghost so why not? I was thinking I'd stand it up the belt but as I used it I realized it was more useful like it was. Having access to the platen, the radius of the rubber drum and the unsupported belt underneath was not what I was used to but I wouldn't change it now. The drawback is the 2x36 belt is not a popular size so it's a little proprietary but with this kit it's expanded its usefulness. I use the wire brush and sanding disk more than the belt but it literally takes 2sec to change and track the belt so I don't even leave the belts on it and just install one as needed.
 

eugene13

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I got this mag base cheap because the rod was missing. I made a socket that is bolted to the base and the 3/8 rod is held in place with two 8-32 set screws. The material I used was the last piece of some free machining steel that I picked up st the drop shop.
 

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Weldo

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Nice! It’s always great to get a deal. When you can make your own parts and components you can search for “as is” stuff!
 

C-Bag

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I finally got all the details caused by inexperience and making do with what I have worked out. And finally got to do a test cut on my radius cutter/ball turner. I decided to rounding the end of a 1" shaft would be the easiest to try it out. I still have to tweek the cutter profile a bit, but it seems to work good.
 

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Weldo

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Lookin good, man! Did you do a thread about your build by chance?
 

C-Bag

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Thanks.

Nope, the only pics are what I'vegot are in this thread. I guess I was embarrassed how long it took me, not to mention I wasn't sure I'd not massively miscalculated and just made a bunch of shiny scrap.
 

Weldo

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Yea sometimes it goes that way. Looks great now though!
 

C-Bag

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I have two ways of doing projects,down and dirty and as nice as possible. With things so quiet and time on my hands I decided to do as nice a job as possible with all I've learned here and YouTube. What Jere Kirkpatrick's BT had that I really like was the pivot offset closer to the work. It solved the insetting of the pivot bolt and made for a clean install on the crosslide. I'd bought the 1/2x4x12 base plate over a year ago. So I cut it in half so thats why I had the kinda before and after shot of it and the finished plate.

The big takeaway from Jere's design and sage words indeed, was you figure the dia stock you want to do and make everything clear. I wanted to be able to make die's for my beader and they are around 2.25. He also had a long handle on his and I used one of my drill press handles for that since I've taken them off my mill/drill. I've used one for the tailstock quick clamp I adapted on my 9x20 getting rid of the bolt clamp. The other novel idea I took was how to measure accurately the radius. He used a little aluminum angle he bolts in place that's on center with the pivot and measures to the cutter. I went simple and made a score across the centerline and use a small square to measure. I realized he must have a "real lathe" probably atleast 12x36 because mine looks bigger than the ones I've seen on 9x20's. The one piece I copied size wise was the pivot and his was 3" which I happened to have a big chunk of. Works and doesn't chatter which was a major concern along with clearance.
 

Diecutter

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Does the offset towards the spindle also give you extra turning capacity? I'm just finishing a bt derived from Steve Bedair's plans which does not have an offset. This is the first one I have seen with an offset and I like it. Thanks for sharing.
 
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