Question about 6061

kentuckyjim

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I have some 6061 tube that I want to machine. Can it be safely worked with a router and a router bit. I have a setup that I use on wood that I want to replicate in 6061. Is this advisable?


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I will work, but you need to secure things better, and take lighter cuts. Slow the bit up a little, and put some tap magic for aluminum on the aluminum, and keep adding it to prevent the AL from sticking to the router bit..
 
I will work, but you need to secure things better, and take lighter cuts. Slow the bit up a little, and put some tap magic for aluminum on the aluminum, and keep adding it to prevent the AL from sticking to the router bit..

Thanks. I'm new to this and hoping to avoid major foul ups.


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I made molds out of 6061 using a Bosch Colt Router as a spindle on a Taig mill and using a constant flood of tranny fluid for a coolant/lubricant. It machined fine with light high feed rate cuts. (Well as fast as the Taig would go anyway). A more modern 3 phase spindle isn't really much different (for load and power) except being closed and liquid cooled. Well, and being induction rather than brushed.

Yes, you can, but if you want good results try to keep your loads under 0.1HP or less. You would be amazed at how much material you can remove at less than .1 HP. I do not actually care for router bits for milling aluminum, but I have used them. a 40ish degree flute angle mill is far superior.

Lubrication is and chip clearing is important for high speed milling aluminum. Chip welding onto the flutes of the mill or router bit is an issue if you fail in that regard. I know only to well from experience.

The biggest issue in my opinion with using a universal brush motor for milling aluminum is that eventually it will get full of aluminum chips and short out. Then next issue is that often the spindle nose bearing gets hot enough to soften the plastic nose of the router or it just fails under constant load and continuous use. I am pretty sure a lot of that heat is transferred up the tool from the cut itself. You can replace the bearings if the nose of the router didn't melt, but your regular old wood routers are not a good long term solution for milling aluminum.

I still have a Bosch Colt router on my little CNC gantry mill that I use for making wood parts.
 
I have hand fed aluminum parts on a router table. I was not thrilled with it, but I did get the job done. I've got a cast iron table extension for my table saw that my router drops right into when I need it. Much nicer (and safer) to use than most little purpose built router tables you see.
 
Glad you mentioned the router table by the way. That may answer another issue I have been thinking about for a powered deburring tool.
 
Thanks. I'm new to this and hoping to avoid major foul ups.


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I would really say that the material and tools should be very solid. The tool will try to grab and could be trouble if they get loose
 
I am a woodworker and started to work with metal in the last few years. I purchased a milling machine in January of this year. I have used my router bits to make profile cuts in aluminium, 3/8in radius. I took light cuts, 20-30 thou, used Tap Magic for lubrication and had slow speed. This worked well.

I would not attempt this with my router table. My router slowest speed is 12,000 rpm. I ran the milling machine at 770 rpm.

I have experienced aluminium cold welding to tools on my metal lathe at 450 rpm. Normally I can clean off the chips with sharp knife.

HSS and carbide router bits will cut aluminium, but only if you prevent cold welding of the chips.
 
Are you hand feeding on a router table?

Yes I am using a router table. I have a jig to hold a 3 1/2 length of tubing. I use this set up for cutting the mortise on a fly reel seat. I want to make an aluminum or nickel silver clad seat with a wood insert. I found a picture on line but I am not sure if I can get it inserted here. I know a picture would be worth a thousand words.


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