Question about Iron Pipe

[Boswell]

I need to make a stair rail for the stairs to the loft of my shop. I want to use 1-1/4" Schedule 40 (1.66" OD) iron pipe that I can get at the local Home Depot type store and some basic fittings. But I will need to have an angle change at a platform. As I have a Hobart Handler 210 MV MIG Welder I was thinking I could just cut two pieces of pipe and the appropriate angle and weld them together. I am very much a newbie to welding but have made a few projects that have not fallen apart.

My questions are
1. Is this as simple as I think it will be?
2. Is the "iron" Pipe at the local box store (Home depot) that is sold mostly for plumbing really iron or is it steal or something else? Does this even mater in this application?
3. Any best practices or suggestions?

Thanks

 

[MrWhoopee]

1. Yes
2. "Iron" pipe is cheap steel, easily welded
3. Have a good time!

 

[Ulma Doctor]

+1 on what Mr. Whoopee says
Black iron is mild steel and can easily be welded or brazed

clean the intended joints with a wire wheel before welding and go to it

An angle grinder easily cuts the pipe too

 

[Bi11Hudson]

1. Yes
2. "Iron" pipe is cheap steel, easily welded
3. Have a good time!

+1 on what Mr. Whoopee says
Black iron is mild steel and can easily be welded or brazed

clean the intended joints with a wire wheel before welding and go to it

An angle grinder easily cuts the pipe too

"Black Iron" is just painted steel. It seems that "galvanizing" reacts with natural gas and is prohibited there. The usual water pipe is galvanized. They both are steel, same as conduit and "snap together" shop railing. If you are an "inexperienced" welder, the galvanizing might cause a little trouble getting a good weld and the smoke should be avoided. Schedule 40 conduit is just water pipe that has been reamed to eliminate any drips and cut to 10 ft rather than 21 ft. Avoiding the "thin wall" stuff is a good idea too. Likely TMI, my back porch handrails are black pipe. When the welds look good, it is suitable for the front porch. Have at it. . .

.

 

[RJSakowski]

Cut both pieces of pipe at the same angle for a good fit. As an example, if you wanted a 50º change in direction, you would bevel each end at 25º. After you cut the angles, then bevel the cut ends to create a vee for the assembled pipe. This will allow you to grind fown the weld to have a smooth transition around the bend without weakening the joint. I like to leave a thin unbeveled section on the edge for registration for welding setup.

When welding pipe, It likes to blow a hole through if you're not careful. After you get the pieces tacked, You can fill the pipe with sand to prevent that.

 

[pontiac428]

Gas pipe is thick and strong. The only thing that differentiates it from ERW structural tubing are the dimensions specified in code. Sch 40 is substantial material with heavy walls. It welds nicely.

 

[Bi11Hudson]

An afterthought, if you know an electrician, the bend raduis for 1-1/4 rigid is just over 10 inches. At the top, it makes a nice curve to hang on to.

.

 

[Flyinfool]

If you want nice transitions they make weld fittings for elbows and end caps that will make a nice railing.

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

 

[General Zod]

I need to make a stair rail for the stairs to the loft of my shop. I want to use 1-1/4" Schedule 40 (1.66" OD) iron pipe that I can get at the local Home Depot type store and some basic fittings. But I will need to have an angle change at a platform. As I have a Hobart Handler 210 MV MIG Welder I was thinking I could just cut two pieces of pipe and the appropriate angle and weld them together. I am very much a newbie to welding but have made a few projects that have not fallen apart.

My questions are
1. Is this as simple as I think it will be?
2. Is the "iron" Pipe at the local box store (Home depot) that is sold mostly for plumbing really iron or is it steal or something else? Does this even mater in this application?
3. Any best practices or suggestions?

Thanks

With the way pricing is with steel, you're likely paying substantially more at a big-box store than at a steel supply place, based on my experience. A 6-foot'er of 1¼" Sch40 at my Home Depot is ~$60 w/tax. A 21-foot'er at a local steel supply warehouse is $78 w/tax. The shorter big-box piece is ~ 2.7x more expensive per-foot. Just something to consider.

Also, if you don't absolutely need Sch40, some places might be able to get you Sch10. My steel warehouse ordered me some 1¼" Sch10 for around $70 for a 21-foot'er from Triple-S Steel in San Antonio; 0.109" wall so it still has some heft to it, as I just didn't need absolutely need 0.140" wall thickness of Sch40.

 

[Boswell]

Thanks everyone. General Zod, I was thinking to check with my local metal supply to see what there price would be. I really appreciate everyone's quick response. Also, Thanks for pointing me to weldable fittings from MC. I don't know any electricians with a bender for 1-1/4 but I was considering making a simple die for my Hydraulic press instead of welding. We will see what works out. Again thanks everyone for the quick and thoughtful responses.