Question About Making My Own Slotted Screw Drivers

I don't know, have never done a 'hollow ground '. Maybe RJ can elaborate.
just do as EM suggests, be careful not to overheat, Also try some snap on bits and regrind as required they are pretty tough.
 
I use a Wheeler gunsmith set. Seems to be a very good quality and excellent size selection. Guns are finicky about screw slots, and you don't take chances messing them up.
 
The chrome plated screwdrivers are slippery, go with the unplated ones (I like Irwin brand). After sharpening, peen the end; that forms a bit of a burr, so the tips bite the
slot sidewalls and don't cam out.

When there's damage to the tip, heat the last inch or so cherry red, and
hammer it thin, then grind to the familiar wedge shape to get it back to nominal
width and thickness. The hammering slightly work-hardens the tip.
 
We needed to modify jewelers screwdrivers for working on atmos as their slots are tiny but deep.

Build fixture to allow square holding of driver in a vise for DP or mill.

Mill is preferred but an X Y table for a DP can work.

Place an understanding mill or stone in the machine and using table have the OD of the cutter just kiss the leading edge of the tip and bring the blade straight in.

Shift over and do opposite side.

Have spare screw to test fit as the setup should not be changed until finished as that will insure parallel faces

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337Z using Tapatalk
 
It's a large radius. I use a 6" bench grinder.
 
Hang a stone in a spindle and dress it. High speed to shape and low speed to finish
Clamp your driver in a vise, blade edge vertical and shank horizontal and manually dress the blade using spindle up down motion.
Whether you grind towards the point or towards the shank is the question to be answered.
 
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