Questions About My New/old Lathe.

wa5cab said:
The parts manual describes the pin through the right eccentric and shaft as a "roll pin". I never heard of one that was tapered.

On another but related subject, the parts manual does not show a roll pin in the left eccentric. Nor any other way of securing it to the shaft. Does it also have a roll pin in it?
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You're right, it's a roll pin and not a tapered pin, but it was definitely happier coming out one way than another on both the ones I've taken apart. Probably a consequence of being whaled on by a previous OP with a hammer and punch I'd guess.

From memory, the left eccentric is pinned in place, but a tight interference fit that would make removal a very committed process :)

pgmrdan said:
Standing in the operator's position on the right hand end of the back gear shaft is the little shiny lever that controls the cam. I don't see a roll pin but there is a nub of metal on the rim of the metal and another spot for a set screw (which is missing). I see part of the detent BB if I look for it.

Update: I just went to Dean's photographica. Is it truly a roll pin (the hollow piece with the slit down the length of the side) or could it be a solid pin? I do see something that looks like a solid pin that may be in the right position. I'll bet that's it.
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It was probably originally a roll pin as Bob noted above, but who knows what's been stuck in there over the 60-70yrs since it was made! I'll bet that pin like thing is what you're after. I didn't have a pin punch that size so I think I used a fine thread cap head screw the right size and gently tapped it out. I know I know, not exactly the right tool for the job but it worked and I didn't damage anything :guilty:
 
I may have to use a small nail with the point ground off. You gotta do what you gotta do.

I need to make a trip to Northern Tools or Harbor Freight really soon for some brass drifts and such.
 
Dan,

Every shop should have a decent set of punches. If you use a nail, you will probably either bugger up the hole or the end of the pin or bang your thumb when the nail folds up on you. Technically, a roll-pin punch has a small teat on the end small enough to go into the hollow roll pin. However, it is more important for installation than for removal. If you have a Dremel tool and a holder to mount it on the compound, you can turn a regular pin punch into a roll-pin punch by thinning down the tip with a cutoff wheel.

Because small pin punches are apt to get bent sooner or later, I usually buy half a dozen at a time of the smallest sizes from McMaster. Once you bend a pin punch the first time, if you straighten it it is about as likely as not to bend again the next time that you try to use it. The best thing to do with them once they're bent is to cut off most of the pin and turn them into an install only roll-pin punch.
 
That's true.
 
Making my own is my plan later.

Turns out the roll pin has solid ends. That's why I thought it was part of the eccentric because the end I could see was solid. Once it drove it out the whole assembly was easy to take apart and clean. Thanks guys!

While I was on a roll I took the countershaft assembly apart and cleaned it too.

I know I'm sort of getting the cart before the horse but before I buy a bunch of replacement parts I want to assess the flatness of the bed. If I need to have the bed reground about how much will that cost? If I have it reground are there any other things I'll have to do such as moving down the carriage traverse rack? If I have the bed reground can I replace other worn parts and have a lathe that's like new or am I dreaming?
 
This morning I found 19331 on the tail stock end of the front way. Is that the serial number? Anyone know what year it would have been made if that's the serial number?
 
Having the bed reground/scraped, is a very expensive proposition. I'm not sure of the going rate, but you could probably buy a much nicer lathe that's tighter for the price you would pay to have it ground. What I think I am going to do with mine is to tear it down, give it a good cleaning then get as much backlash out of everything as I can, and reassemble. When everything gets back where it belongs, I will indicate everything to see if I can live with the slop that's still there. My ultimate goal is to get a nice South Bend, but I hope the Atlas will work for me till then.
I guess it boils down to whatever type of work you want to do with it, and what you are willing to put up with in the way of tolerances. Personally, I need so much to get my shop to the point that I can do what I would like that I can't justify the cost of the grind. I need a small mill, (looking for an Atlas horizontal at a price that works for me), tooling for the lathe and mill, etc. etc. etc. The cash outlay is disturbing. So, it's mostly garage sales, and auctions for me.
Not trying to talk you out of it tho, everyone has different needs. Check out the scraping threads, I saw the cost there, but can't remember offhand .
 
Wa5cab will be able to tell you when he comes on. He really knows his way around an Atlas. And yep, that is the serial number.
 
Of course I'm hoping it's not worn enough to worry about but just in case I'd like to know what I'm in for. I've heard regrinding the bed is expensive but on a 30" bed I'm hoping it's not too expensive if needed.

I'm becoming addicted to messing with this lathe. I can't just walk past it. I end up spending 20 minutes or more with it every time I get near it. I'm having fun. :D
 
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