Quick change collet

I do not over tighten it, but each one needs to be punched out after tightening.

The tensioning collar (nut) should pull the collet loose when loosened. It must be backed off several turns to do this. If that's not working something is wrong.
I don't know what kind off collet they are. Other than chinese. I always figure they were proprietary as they don't offer that info.
Got my set from cdco their sets are $49.00.
 
Look like ER collets to me, I didn’t notice the add stating what size , the collet should snap into the nut before putting it in the chuck and should come out with the nut when unscrewed.
 
When I ordered my mill, Grizzly G0755 I also purchased a South Bend collet set SB1348. Now if I wanted to add sizes to the set, or purchase a more complete set, what kind of collet is it? It is anything but quick, I do not over tighten it, but each one needs to be punched out after tightening.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/8-P...348?utm_campaign=zPage&utm_source=grizzly.com
If it is an ER collet, there should be a lip in the nut which engages the groove in the collet . To use, you insert the collet at an angle to engage the groove. The collet will be captive in the nut.
When you are replacing the tool, you loosen the nut and then continue to turn it. You will meet some resistance and then it will loosen again. At that [point, the tool should be loose.
 
I have the non-SB set from Grizz. Mine are ER-40 collets.
There are two points of feel in the tighten and loosen stage.
One you are feeling the nose of the collet starting to grip, the other you are feeling all of the available space disappear (inside the collet holder.)
So, you loosen about a 1/4 turn and then you loosen another 1/2 turn, and at that point you can spin the nut off in your hands.
 
Thank you, I'll check for the lip when I get home, I did not look for it, and I may be using it wrong. It did not jump out at me when looking things over
 
Yeap, those are ER 40 collets and here's a chart of ER collet ranges for imperial sizes.

By the way, you can buy a ball bearing nut that makes tightening and untightening a bit easier.

Here's one from Maritool:

1515788051324.png

Here's one from Arceurotrade:

1515788229329.png

Alternatively you can buy a set of R8 collets and save some head room on you mill. ER collets are great tool holders but you loose headroom due to their projection.
 

Attachments

  • ER collet ranges Imperial.pdf
    328.8 KB · Views: 7
. . . . . . . . I do not over tighten it, but each one needs to be punched out after tightening.

I am not sure what you mean by this but just in case -
You have to remove the nut completely to change the collet out. On an ER collet holder, the collet snaps into the nut and then you put the nut with collet into the holder and screw it on. Then you insert the tool and tighten. To get the tool out of the collet, you sometimes must over spin the nut until forcibly get the collet to release from the taper of the holder. Once you get it that far the tool should come out without having to completely remove the nut.
 
Alan, I'm using the collet wrong, I'm not getting the collet it's self in the nut properly, I am taking the nut off all the way, the collet, and tool stay back. Thank you for the info you posted.
 
Back
Top