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R8 for annular cutters

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Aukai

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#1
I have a mag drill, and some annular cutters, what I'm thinking about is using an R8 chuck for the Weldon shank on the mill . I have the Grizzly G0755 2 hp, what would be a good R8 Weldon chuck for this. Thank you.
 

JimDawson

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#3
I would use the proper size end mill holder. They are designed for Weldon shanks.
 

P. Waller

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#4
I would use the proper size end mill holder. They are designed for Weldon shanks.
So would I but he asked about chucks, he may be confusing a drill chuck with a tool holder however.
 

Aukai

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#5
I have the collet, and keyed chuck that would hold the cutter, but if the cutter bites then it would slip. That is my thinking anyway, maybe I'm over thinking?:confused:
I looked up R8 end mill holder, that is what I need. What is a good brand? Thank you for getting me on track.
 
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mksj

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#6
Get yourself a 3/4" end mill holder and drill/tap two holes for Allen lock screws. I turn down the heads of the screws so they are flat so less damage to the annular cutter. Get a decent endmill holder so the annular cutter should be a close fit when inserted into the end mill holder. The end mill holders are surface hardened, so you may burn up a drill bit or two in the process. Punch through with a smaller size drill first, then drill a larger hole and tap. You will need to file down the inside burs from the drilling/tapping. I use two set screws in mine, pretty close to the tip of the holder. Works very well. Mine is a Lyndex that I picked up for around $40, sometimes you can find ETM or Iscar for a bit more. Other option is SOWA which are Taiwanese, I have other R8 tooling from them and it is very good. There are Accusize annular chucks for R8, but the reviews tend to be not so good. I would not recommend using any type of keyed chuck.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-4-R8-Sow...Gauge-Length-1-89-Major-Diameter/311339869559

Annular Cutter Holder 2.jpg
 

Firstram

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#7
Buy a proper coolant thru arbor, it puts the coolant down in the cut where it belongs. Yes it makes a mess, but for what the cutters cost it sure is nice to keep them alive as long as possible. Especially if you plan on drilling some thing like stainless which work hardens so you cant stop and dribble oil.

Just an example https://www.amazon.com/Jancy-Slugger-IABR8-Industrial-Coolant/dp/B003EYVECW
 

P. Waller

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#8
I have the collet, and keyed chuck that would hold the cutter, but if the cutter bites then it would slip. That is my thinking anyway, maybe I'm over thinking?:confused:
I looked up R8 end mill holder, that is what I need. What is a good brand? Thank you for getting me on track.
Tool holders are far less expensive, buy a Weldon shank holder of the diameter required.

As with any product you get the quality that you are willing to pay for, Nikken makes excellent r8 holders https://www.lyndexnikken.com/R8-End-Mill-Holder-c1027.htm

Others make r8 tooling as well such as Hardinge, I suspect that you will not like the prices however. For your application buy the lowest priced import product that you can find and have at it.
 

jaek

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#9
McMaster has part# 31315A254 which has a 3/4" straight shank, dual set screws, and the weird internal spring thing to hold the pilot shaft. $83 which is a little spendy for limited use, but it works great.
 

Firstram

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#10
McMaster has part# 31315A254 which has a 3/4" straight shank, dual set screws, and the weird internal spring thing to hold the pilot shaft. $83 which is a little spendy for limited use, but it works great.
^This^ at the very least. The ejection pin won't work without the spring.
 

Aukai

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#11
Great ideas, and thank you for the links.
 
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Aukai

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#13
Thank you for the link.
 

PT Doc

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#14
Surprisingly MSC has quite a few 3/4” endmill holders under $50. Do the set screws of the end mill holder line up with the flat of the annular cutter without need for modification?
 

mksj

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#15
Kennametal, Collis and Accupro are good quality end mill holders. I tend to stay away from Interstate these days. With MSC, once you get checked out after tax and shipping the price is less attractive, let alone applying the correct discount code.
https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/02293041

The set screws in the end mill holders do not align with the annular cutter flats, so you need to drill/tap new holes close to the tip. The other problem is end mill holders are beveled at the nose, so the hole may need to go through the beveled section. I went with a end mill holder that had the smallest nose bevel I could find. Annular cutter holders have a flat nose with no bevel. One could put the end mill holder on the lathe and cut off the tapered section, but it can be pretty tough stuff getting through the case hardening.
 

PT Doc

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#16
It seems like the annular cutter don’t have much of a shank yet r8 annular cutter holders are really long below the r8 taper. Why all the added length? Might not make a difference since there won’t be side loading on an annular cutter.
 
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