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[4]

R8 Keyless Drill Chuck

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wvnitroman

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#1
Has anyone tried any of the keyless drill chucks from Precision Matthews? If so, what do you think?

Thanks,
Kevin
 

coffmajt

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#2
Some advice I picked up from others here, get you a keyless chuck with a 1/2 inch round arbor instead of R8 and use your collet. It saves a bunch of headroom on tight setups where you need to change tooling. I wound up buying some used Albrecht chucks off e bay and have been real happy with them == Jack
 

P. Waller

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#3
Why exactly do you desire a keyless drill chuck?
Please explain.
 

P. Waller

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#5
Keyed or keyless. Doesn't really matter either way. :)
It will, I only use drill chucks for roughing and spotting, if making a 1 1/4" finished hole spot it with the keyless and go right to a 1 3/16 drill in a tool holder, you will rapidly grow weary of spinning the drill otherwise. They are excellent for holding measuring tools such a indicators and edge finders as well.
 

wvnitroman

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#6
It will, I only use drill chucks for roughing and spotting, if making a 1 1/4" finished hole spot it with the keyless and go right to a 1 3/16 drill in a tool holder, you will rapidly grow weary of spinning the drill otherwise. They are excellent for holding measuring tools such a indicators and edge finders as well.
I should say it isn't a big deal to me either way. One job I will be doing will require changing between an end mill and a drill bit every step. That's why I'm gonna have a power draw bar.
 

P. Waller

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I should say it isn't a big deal to me either way. One job I will be doing will require changing between an end mill and a drill bit every step. That's why I'm gonna have a power draw bar.
How many thousands of parts?
If a sufficient number then a machine with a tool changer is what you need, you will not be happy with a collet spindle machine even using tool holders and a power draw bar, they do not hold Z axis dimensions very well after a tool change. BT 30 or Cat 40 spindles and any other NMTB spindles excell at this, no manual draw bar, most are coolant through these days as well.
 

wvnitroman

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How many thousands of parts?
If a sufficient number then a machine with a tool changer is what you need, you will not be happy with a collet spindle machine even using tool holders and a power draw bar, they do not hold Z axis dimensions very well after a tool change. BT 30 or Cat 40 spindles and any other NMTB spindles excell at this, no manual draw bar, most are coolant through these days as well.
Having a fancy machine would take all the fun out of it. LOLOLOLO
 

Bamban

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#9
Here is my PM keyless drill chuck. I return an Albrecht back to Enco, runout was worst than the PM. Luck of the draw I suppose.

Watch "PM Drill Chuck" on YouTube
 

mksj

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#10
I prefer an integrated R8 chuck if you want to minimize runout for the mill. I have both keyed and keyless in an integrated mill chucks, I have used the PM 5/8" high precision, Shars version of this (nickle plated precision series) and find them to both work well and have minimal runout. I had the 1/2" Glacern version R8 integrated keyless chuck, but it failed and at least for me didn't work as well as some of the others. My main integrated R8 chucks for the mill are both made by Llambrich, TIR runs around 0.0007" at 3" and I have not had any issues with them over tightening which can be a problem with the Albrecht and also had this with the Glacern. If you have a full size mill then I would get a 5/8" chuck. I often do multiple parts requiring several tooling changes, the keyless chucks are a real time saver.
 

PT Doc

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Where is the Llambrich chuck manufactured? Is the PM a Taiwanese chuck?
I prefer an integrated R8 chuck if you want to minimize runout for the mill. I have both keyed and keyless in an integrated mill chucks, I have used the PM 5/8" high precision, Shars version of this (nickle plated precision series) and find them to both work well and have minimal runout. I had the 1/2" Glacern version R8 integrated keyless chuck, but it failed and at least for me didn't work as well as some of the others. My main integrated R8 chucks for the mill are both made by Llambrich, TIR runs around 0.0007" at 3" and I have not had any issues with them over tightening which can be a problem with the Albrecht and also had this with the Glacern. If you have a full size mill then I would get a 5/8" chuck. I often do multiple parts requiring several tooling changes, the keyless chucks are a real time saver.

Where is the Llambrich chuck manufactured? Is the PM a Taiwanese chuck? Do you like the knurled collar on keyless chucks? How is the PM to use without this collar? Sorry for all the questions. Thanks
 
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