[How-To] Rank beginner question on cutting gears

WobblyHand

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I've seen some plastic gear sets for slowing down the feed rate of mini-lathes for sale. They aren't too expensive, but they seem to be 3D printed, which makes me feel uncomfortable. So I am thinking about making as set myself. Down the rabbit hole I go.

So I spent a little time reading about gears. Found and downloaded some of the resources here on HM, and in this sub-forum. LMS says the module as 1, so it's metric. No surprise there. The gear set is 80/15 and 90. I can calculate the blank sizes. At some point, I will figure out the pitch angle. It's probably 20 degrees, but I'll check.

What I am confused about is when I go to eBay and look for involute cutters, they sell sets of M1 cutters. Then there are sizes of #1-8. What are these sizes? Can someone explain this?

Could I make these gears using my PM25? I probably would make the gears out of steel. What "stuff" would I need to do this? An indexing head with dividing plate, and ? Obviously, I'd have to make the arbor for the cutters, and something (an expanding mandrel?) to hold the gear blank. As you can tell, I'm in over my head, but I am intrigued with the idea of making gears. Gears have always fascinated me.

Anyways, are there resources for the dummy's guide to cutting gears?
 
The numbers 1- 8 refer to the range of diameter gears that can be cut with a specific cutter. Yhe tooth profile varies with diameter. It is my understanding that the Asian cutter convention is numbered opposite from US made cutters.
 
@RJSakowski, I don't know the convention for US cutters either, so for Module1 is #1 bigger or smaller than #8? Actually my experience is so limited in machining, I don't even know how to ask the right sorts of questions.

For an 8 piece set, #1-#8, M1, I can cut over what range of teeth per gear? Where can this sort of information be found? I don't even know where to look.
 
Looked in the Toolmex catalog. #1 is the smallest # of teeth. Seems to be 12 teeth is the minimum. #8 is for the biggest #of teeth. 135 teeth. Well, that covers a decent span.

Back to what is needed to actually cut gears. How does one hold a larger M1 gear rigidly enough? The shaft ID is quite small relative to the size of the blank for 90 teeth.
 
The #8 cutter will cut teeth from 135 teeth to rack teeth. An expanding arbor would not hold a gear rigidly enough and might rattle loose in the process of cutting teeth, I would use a nut mandrel with a shoulder, held between centers, a large precisely made washer to back up the gear blank would take care of the rigidity issue.
 
I'm no expert either but have cut a few gears. Sets with 1 to 8 will cut all the spur gears you are likely to encounter. Do you have a Machinery Handbook? Gear cutting is explained pretty well. Module and Diametral are just two different ways of measuring (metric and imperial.) There seem to be only 3 different pitches in common use, with 20 most common. For a mini lathe I'd be inclined to use acetal, at least to start. Machines much easier than steel and is pretty tough. I made an aluminum change gear for a 10" lathe (not mine) a couple of years ago. Still running fine.

What method of indexing do you have? I have a rotary H/V table with indexing plates and a tailstock. I used the Machinery Handbook to learn how to use the indexing plates. Expanding arbors would be nice. I just offset the tailstock and turned a piece of mystery metal. I ended up buying a broach set after doing several keyways the hard way. Broaching is so much faster and easier but you need a press. Do you see the rabbit hole?

A fun project but as usual I screwed up several in the process. There are YouTube videos that help. Check out Mr. Pete & Keith Rucker.
That large gear is going to be harder to hold. Benmychree has some suggestions.
 
These are good places to start.



Metric gears are not well served by the readily available textbooks, sadly.

This, however, is an excellent resource:

 
The #8 cutter will cut teeth from 135 teeth to rack teeth. An expanding arbor would not hold a gear rigidly enough and might rattle loose in the process of cutting teeth, I would use a nut mandrel with a shoulder, held between centers, a large precisely made washer to back up the gear blank would take care of the rigidity issue.
Thanks, that is very helpful. I think I will make a sketch of the mandrel and post it for feedback.
 
I'm no expert either but have cut a few gears. Sets with 1 to 8 will cut all the spur gears you are likely to encounter. Do you have a Machinery Handbook? Gear cutting is explained pretty well. Module and Diametral are just two different ways of measuring (metric and imperial.) There seem to be only 3 different pitches in common use, with 20 most common. For a mini lathe I'd be inclined to use acetal, at least to start. Machines much easier than steel and is pretty tough. I made an aluminum change gear for a 10" lathe (not mine) a couple of years ago. Still running fine.

What method of indexing do you have? I have a rotary H/V table with indexing plates and a tailstock. I used the Machinery Handbook to learn how to use the indexing plates. Expanding arbors would be nice. I just offset the tailstock and turned a piece of mystery metal. I ended up buying a broach set after doing several keyways the hard way. Broaching is so much faster and easier but you need a press. Do you see the rabbit hole?

A fun project but as usual I screwed up several in the process. There are YouTube videos that help. Check out Mr. Pete & Keith Rucker.
That large gear is going to be harder to hold. Benmychree has some suggestions.
Hah, hah, that hole is deep! Acetal might be good to start with. I have made a few acetal pieces in a lathe before. I might have some 7075 I could use, it's not round, but it is big enough. My lathe will make it round.

I have practically nothing for indexing, save for a 5C spin indexer. Don't think that will work. But you have to start somewhere. If I need to get some stuff, I will. If possible, I'd like to get something that's versatile. Don't have a rotary table, would like a small one. I have a PM25, so I can't get a big one anyways.

Oh boy, I know all about manually cutting key ways in a lathe. It's hard, especially with steel in a mini-lathe. It took me a long time, especially since the key way was blind. Yeah, the rabbit hole leads to profuse spending... But, hey, I could use an arbor press, right? Between us, I'd rather spend the cash on a rotary table setup.
 
This old Tony has a video of making the exact gears in question. He explains the difference in the 1-8 and how it’s backwards. He makes his out of aluminum good watch as always with him.
 
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