Rate the Harbor Freight Tools Thread- Pass or Fail?

[imagineer]

Probably been commented on already, but I add my endorsement of the Harbor Freight Surfacing Tool.



It does what it's supposed to. I've used mine for about 3 hours total now and am pleased with the results. So far, I've only used the medium (tan) and fine (red) wheels. One early gripe was the weight of the tool, but after using it, I realized it works better if you don't lean on it, rather allow the weight of the tool to do the work.

 

[C-Bag]

rather allow the weight of the tool to do the work.

this is one of the details about this machine that's not readily apparent. But it makes it so you can get consistent with it. I've not used the HF, but the super expensive original ones for putting brushed finish on stainless steel. Once you get the hang of it, it's the only way to go IMHO. And in our fab shop it was the only machine for putting fine brushed finish on the stainless steel parts we made. You just have to make sure you don't do steel with one of the wheels then do SS as over time it will rust. Found out the hard way

 

[MikeWi]

Good to hear. That one is on my want list.

 

[C-Bag]

yeah, I've thought about it too as it's way cheaper than the original. Just don't know how much I'd use it.

 

[imagineer]

this is one of the details about this machine that's not readily apparent. But it makes it so you can get consistent with it.

For what it's worth, I've only used it on aluminum that was heavily oxidized. I found that if I leaned into the tool, it left black marks on the material that were difficult to remove. I assume the marks were from the heat being generated from the excess pressure on the tool, melting the adhesives or material of the consumable buffing drum and depositing it onto the metal.

My goal for the project was to have all pieces (drawer fronts and frame) brushed in the same vertical direction. I found however, if I did each piece lightly in the horizontal direction, the end results from the vertical buffing were more complete and consistent.

 

[pontiac428]

I saw a guy on the internets who set up a HF Bauer surfacing tool for the purpose of ruining his lathe bed. Now I can't find the picture, but it was one of these dubious setups. It was a South Bend lathe, IIRC, which means I can never buy a South Bend, because that "restored" lathe is somewhere out there!

 

[Gaffer]

Probably been commented on already, but I add my endorsement of the Harbor Freight Surfacing Tool.

View attachment 432049

It does what it's supposed to. I've used mine for about 3 hours total now and am pleased with the results. So far, I've only used the medium (tan) and fine (red) wheels. One early gripe was the weight of the tool, but after using it, I realized it works better if you don't lean on it, rather allow the weight of the tool to do the work.

I bought the Contour SCT from Eastwood several years ago. I don't know if they were the original designer, but it's where I saw it. It's on sale now for $179 and comes with a 3-year warranty. Mine crapped out at about a year and a half. I emailed them, they sent me a return authorization that included shipping, and they sent me a brand new one. I believe I paid $200 then, but I don't remember. It came with a really nice steel wall mount, extra wheels, and allen wrenches.

Eastwood CONTOUR SCT® - Surface Conditioning Tool

Multiple Tools In One! Removes Rust, Paint, Body Fillers Conditions Metal so it is Ready to Paint Buff Metal to a Mirror Finish Professional Grade Backed by a 3 Year Warranty US Patent #D814,261

www.eastwood.com

 

[C-Bag]

Had my first HFT fail in years. I thought I needed a hand plane for finishing the door jamb on a couple of doors. I had borrowed my neighbors plane who is a woodworker and it worked wonderfully to straighten the jamb on a couple of doors. I generally buy something instead of borrowing again. Checked HF site and simple hand plane was $14. Went there and there was the HF and what looked to be nicer Windsor brand. Both the same price. Took it home and not being a woodworker and no instructions I tried to adjust blade and it just seemed a fail. Asked my neighbor and he wasnt impressed either. So FAIL, it’s going back for a refund instead of trying to mod. I used my little quarter sheet sander and the door works perfect now. Lesson learned. There was good reviews on one hand plane, must have been the other.

 

[GeneT45]

Planes are one of those things where I've never seen a 'deal' that was worth a darn, even though some of them look nice (I've tried...). At the end of the day it's Lie-Nielsen for me - quite a bit more, but they work as they should. That said, some old Stanleys, cleaned up with a new, quality, plane iron are great too - just getting harder to find.

To the topic at hand: I think the U.S. General boxes are perhaps the best deal and most under-rated HF product out there. They're slightly lighter weight than they used to be but even the current generation seem more robust than anything else I can find short of $nap-on.

The older (orange) 20-ton press is great, especially after a few mods that you'll find all over the internet. xCan't vouch for the new one, which is lighter weight, but the one I looked at was clearly welded by someone with five minutes of training.

I also like their 3-ton low profile long (automotive) jack. It's heavy, but works great.

The small air die grinders, straight and right angle are so cheap (~$8 when on sale) that I have nearly a dozen and rarely change tools. The only downside is that they're air hogs compared to comparable brand-name units, but if you have the air capacity it's not an issue.

GsT

 

[Larry$]

Planes are one of those things where I've never seen a 'deal' that was worth a darn, even though some of them look nice (I've tried...).

Spot on! I'm a old woodworker. I have several old Stanleys that I bought at auction in the '60s. After learning how to tune a plane they work great. I've tried to help a couple of guys tune a new big box store plane, nearly impossible. The fresh castings were still moving, The clearances were already excessive. No idea what kind of metal was in the iron and chip breaker but it sure wasn't tool steel. The sole had been sanded, not ground. The frog to body didn't fit. The mouth opening was 'as cast.' But the looks right out of the store were pretty good. Could it be made into a decent plane, probably. Start by stress relieving the castings. Mill the frog to body & mouth. Surface grind the body bottom, sides & cap iron. Debur every thing. Make or buy a quality blade. Can a guy do it w/o machine tools, yup given enough time.