Rebarrel small ring 95 mauser

The other side of the stub has 12 tpi imperial threads. I have the JB Weld on and am waiting for it to dry. Will probably leave it until tomorrow morning so it has a chance to cure over night. Already over 90 degrees in the garage/shop and will be close to 100 by the time the JB Weld might be cured this afternoon. Time to hide out in the house for the rest of the day.
 
I would hide in the house too.
 
This is why I haven't been in the shop/garage for about 3 weeks now. It will hit 105-110 in the shop unless we get a afternoon monsoon rain, and we haven't been having many of those this year. :(
 
Back in the days I did this for a crust (all that gunsmiths were paid),we used to have to cut the thread in no more than five passes,leaving it somewhat oversize and somewhat unfinished(--rough),then we would use a hand held thread chaser to refine the appearance ,and to get an exact fit .....the chaser just "shaves" the frizz off the thread ,and leaves a perfect finish and fit...........And here ,I might add,if you want to use a pre 98 action ,you should look at how the 1910 Serbian action achieved a good support of the case head.(Yugo 1948 the same.),or even better the British P14 ,where there is zero unsupported case head.
 
In published Mauser drawings ,the tenon thread is of 55deg form......Im not saying all are,as I havent seen all........but I do know that the same era Steyr thread was in fact 60deg..(1 1/16 x12 )
 
I have read about thread chasers. I have never seen one and don't know where I could buy or if they are even still available.
 
Trying to hold the wires in place with one hand and take a mic reading with the other was beyond me. Got a couple of rubber bands to hold the wires in place. This worked great.

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If I did the math right following the formula in my 1915 ed of the Machinery's Handbook the reading on the mic should be 1.0117 when the threads are correct. As I got close I kept doing trial fits with the receiver as a cross check. The receiver would not screw until I got to 1.05. The receiver then screwed on with a very tight fit. No slop.

You might ask why I have the 1915 edition? I got it specifically because I do everything manually and old school.
 
You might ask why I have the 1915 edition? I got it specifically because I do everything manually and old school.

Same reason I use my 1936 edition. Just because they didn't have computers doesn't mean they didn't have brains.
 
Time to move this thread to the next step.

I am planning to buy Green Mountain barrels. Cost is a big issue for me and GM barrels have decent reviews. Most likely their gunsmith models which are not turned at all. Why? Because they are 1/2 the price of their turned barrels and because I would still have to contour their turned barrels. I have been researching contouring barrels. Some say to contour the barrel before chambering. Others say to chamber first. This seems like the classic Chevy vs Ford debate. Since I have absolutely no experience with this I have no idea about either way or if it even matters.

Educate me.
 
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