Rebarrel small ring 95 mauser

A pin or set screw will allow movement. 2 piece will allow errors with every use.
Solder the ring to the shaft and then do the final machining to make sure everything is perfect and permanent. Make one end for SM and the other end for LR.
 
You can use the raceway mandrel (what I'll call the one you posted above) between centers with good accuracy. Hinnant's version has two threaded cones to take up the slack. You can't do any operations other than facing the receiver with that setup. You might not need more than that on your Chile Mauser project, but if you want to do more work you can use a receiver fixture like the one I made below.
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This fixture allows you to true the lugs and lap or ream the raceway.
IMAG0039.jpg​

The slot allows me to do bolt face work, such as re-sizing for different calibers and general accurizing.
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I have another mandrel fixture for bolts, but this one is more secure. It takes time to set up, but it allows many accuracy steps to be completed in one fixture.
 
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All I am looking for from the raceway mandrel is to face the end of the receiver. I think that I will use the .75 SS shaft and solder or weld a piece on it for the threaded portion. That will be the least amount of work.
 
Welding is more likely to warp the shaft, soft silver solder will be more than strong enough without the high heat required.
 
I am going to be mounting scopes on 95 mausers. I like the one piece redfield mounts. That's what I have on my Swede 96. I have been looking for awhile and some have come up on Ebay. Redfield made two bases for mausers One model number 511137 says 95 98 on the box. The other model number 511138 says mauser kar, swedish, small ring on the box. I found an old listing online that said 511138 would only fit kar and swedish rifles made after 1905 and model 95. The pictures that I have from the seller aren't the best because the bases are in their original packaging. I can't tell any difference in the bases from looking at the pictures. I had the seller measure the bases thinking that the model 98 bases would be longer. But both bases are the same length.

Can anybody help me out on which are the right bases for my Chilean 95 mausers?

Thanks
 
Update on the scope bases.

I posted this same question on PM and the gunsmithing forums. The only response on PM was not to modify an old mil surplus action. On the gunsmithing forum I got a response from a member there who had knowledge of both bases and had installed a 511138 on a Mexican small ring mauser. He told me that the 511138 was the correct base for my mausers and that I would have to remove the hump. Plan to order two 511138 bases later today if I can't find a base that doesn't require removing the hump.
 
This morning I worked on my 66 MG Midget. This afternoon I started on the raceway mandrel. I am using the stainless steel shaft out of an outboard lower unit. Most of the shaft is .750 OD which I will turn down to .700 OD to fit the raceway. One end of the shaft is 1.100 OD. I'm thinking that's pretty cool because I don't have weld or solder something to the shaft to be able the cut the .980 OD threads to fit in the receiver. Now for the bad news. Don't you always hate that bad news part. The 1.100 end of the shaft is hardened. I can nick it with a file. Neither my HSS or carbide tool bits will do anything more that scrape some dust off it. On one end where I will be turning it down to .700 I ground off the outer layer and I was able to turn this with my HSS tool bits. The section that needs to be .980 OD is only about 1 long. I can mark off the portion and grind down the rest. But what about that short 1" long section?

I only have .060 to play with. Should I try to grind off the outer layer? Don't know if I have enough leeway to do that. Or is there some way to get rid of the hardened surface.

Suggestions please.
 
Looked into annealing. All I have is a propane torch. Don't know if that would get the small portion where the threads will be hot enough. The rest I could grind off the hard outer layer. Lots of material to work with there.
 
mickri said:
Looked into annealing. All I have is a propane torch. Don't know if that would get the small portion where the threads will be hot enough. The rest I could grind off the hard outer layer. Lots of material to work with there.
Click to expand...
Somewhere I heard that MAPP gas can get you hot enough for annealing.
 
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