Rebarrel small ring 95 mauser

I made a stout barrel vice and aluminum inserts. It is attached to one of my work benches. I don't have a hydraulic press. If I did I would use it like your set up. I have a 6' piece of 2x1.5 angle that came from a bed frame for the cheater. I don't know what kind of steel it is. It is so hard that a drill just rubs. An end mill will cut it. In another thread discussing spot annealing it was mentioned to use a nail in a drill press pressed hard against the material until it glowed from the heat. It would soften the metal so you could drill it. I will give that a try. Be interesting to see the result. Could be BS. No loss if I ruin a framing nail in the process.

Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
 
Should add i found the use of that 1" x 30" bar shown (with two grade 8 bolts screwed thru it ends sticking out that engage the reciever wrench) work well. Have a another 30" cheater with same set up for stubborn ones. May need a thired one as age takes its toll on my bod. Whole thing is bolted to ground and ajacent bench. Can easily be put on or taken off and lessens weight for ease. Allows wrench to be put on receiver and helps to position the "refrigerator magnet" pad used to keep "V" from marring reciever. Set up copied from one at my late mentors (Hal Sharons shop, In addition to P14/17 tough ones some of the Springfields, Turks and Spanish have been a pain as well. Rebarreling is easy with this set up and have "corrected" loose headspace on some that only require reindexing sights. With care we have not ovalled either barrel or receiver. Pardon the crudeness of the welds and other work but this setup was built in a matter of hours due to a rush project for a movie. I read somewhere gunsmiths of old used their own urine on threads as loctite -- Have reason to believe it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
I made a stout barrel vice and aluminum inserts. It is attached to one of my work benches. I don't have a hydraulic press. If I did I would use it like your set up. I have a 6' piece of 2x1.5 angle that came from a bed frame for the cheater. I don't know what kind of steel it is. It is so hard that a drill just rubs. An end mill will cut it. In another thread discussing spot annealing it was mentioned to use a nail in a drill press pressed hard against the material until it glowed from the heat. It would soften the metal so you could drill it. I will give that a try. Be interesting to see the result. Could be BS. No loss if I ruin a framing nail in the process.

Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Bed frames are well known for off the scale Rockwell hardness and yours is the best use i ever heard. Virtually useless as untreated scrap. 6' means you a) have lots of room ans B) room to get out of way when she breaks loose. Know a guy who clonked himself pretty good with an over head pull.
 
The barrel vise is mounted on one end of an old wood desk that I use as a work bench. There is a 4" vise on the other end. I could attach a block and tackle from the cheater to the 4" vise and be well out of harm's way.

I used most of the bed frame to make a cart to hold a 25 gallon sprayer tank.
 
The barrel vise is mounted on one end of an old wood desk that I use as a work bench. There is a 4" vise on the other end. I could attach a block and tackle from the cheater to the 4" vise and be well out of harm's way.

I used most of the bed frame to make a cart to hold a 25 gallon sprayer tank.
Another good use. Fella way back got a "deal" on a whole pile of bed frames he was going to drill and bolt together for a heavy duty storage rack. Last time i looked that huge pile was still sitting behind his garage untouched in these many decades later.
 
Finished the action wrench and got the holes drilled in the cheater without too much trouble. One side of the wrench I machined to fit the small ring mauser actions that I have and the other side was machined to fit the carcano. The mauser action turned out to be .040 smaller OD than the carcano. I will need to make a spacer to get a good fit on the mauser action.

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Barrel vise on the end of the work bench.

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Tried it out. The carcano barrel was really stuck to the action. Absolutely did not want to come free. I have been soaking the threads with PB Blaster, WD40, Ed's Red and whatever else I had sitting around. I didn't want to damage the action and the barrel looked almost smooth. Not much rifling. So I chucked the barrel and action in the lathe and machined off the shoulder on the barrel where it met up against the action. The barrel fit through the spindle. Got to try out the spider that I recently made. Worked good. The action then easily spun off of the barrel. The threads on the barrel were wet from the stuff I had been soaking it with.

All in all a good day.
 
When I get done with moving all this white stuff, I will post pics of the barrel vise I got last week, it is a monster.
 
Ordered stocks from Richards Microfit. I have decided to restock my 96 Swede too. It has a bubba'd military stock that I kind of liked. But it didn't fit me very good. I ordered two Old Classic style #102 in American black walnut and one Modern Classic in caro walnut. I also ordered a Cascade Classic in brown/brown laminate for the carcano.

I have been looking for barrels. Green Mountain is my first choice for an inexpensive barrel. I asked them if they would sell a 257 barrel and a 358 barrel in their unfinished gunsmith blank. They said no. They only offered these calibers as turned barrels. Cost $111 per barrel. Numrich offers an unfinished gunsmith 257 barrel for $80. Numrich also offers a 257 Roberts barrel for a small ring mauser that is threaded, chambered and contoured for $138.75. https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/726190B The contour looks to be a #1. Could be a #3. I would prefer the heavier #3 contour. These barrels just came back into stock and are currently available. I wonder who makes these barrels for Numrich. I have recently given Numrich my FFL03 and should be getting a 10% discount on future orders. I think that the 257 Roberts barrel is the way that I should go. Plan to order one today. What do you guys think about the Numrich barrels?
 
Mick,
Just curious, do you use your Curios and relics license for discounts or are you a collector? Or both?
I had my 03 until one day I was reading through the fine print, ATF or designate, can knock on your door any time they want, to search your records and inventory.
I let it lapse. I still enjoy discounts from Brownell's though.
 
I got the FFL03 because I wanted to start collecting older guns. With the FFL03 I could have C&R's shipped directly to me without having to go through an FFL01. Then California changed its laws so that even if you have an FFL03 you still have to have out of state C&R purchases go through an FFL01. I didn't want to incur that additional cost which can be significant so I don't use the FFL03 much anymore.

You are right about the ATF comparing your bound book to the firearms in your collection anytime they want to.
 
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