Recommend Wire Wheel for bench grinder

The nice thing about the knotted wheels is they last a long long time, and get the job done quicker. I've gotten used to using one on an 8" grinder for cleaning bolts and rusted steel with good results, but you do have to pay attention to where your fingers are at all times, and have a good grip on your work. The finer ones do a good job, but require more time/passes, and I get tired of being a pin cushion. If the work is large enough to clamp down, my go to is a knotted cup on a 4.5" hand held. As said, a face shield is a must, and I usually have hearing protection too. If I'm doing a lot of material prep I'll wear my fresh air hood. Mike
 
I have always used wire wheels a lot for cleaning parts, and I am 79 now. the only wire brushes I use are stainless fine wires and they must be rated for at least 6 thousand rpm. they never throw wires and last forever on a 1725 rpm motor. I don't wear a face shield--just glasses to keep debris out of my eyes. you don't need high speed and I do not use any guards around the wheels.--- they are much safer without guards. don't have a rag in your hand or loose clothing close to the wheel. if you have a wire wheel that throws loose wires then throw it away, it will only get worse. it takes good knowledge and practice to use wire wheels effectively and not getting hurt. an old 1725 rpm double non enclosed long shaft motor works best for cleaning bolts and parts. you don't need 3450 rpm, 1725 is plenty and much safer. I will look to see if I can find the brand names of the stainless ones I use--- I know they are rated for 6k rpm for sure. ***they are Osborn narrow 6,000 rpm rated stainless .006 crimped wires.

Dave
 
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I know I HAVE NOT been a happy camper/grinder with the farm store wheels and abrasive cloth tapes.
They seem to wear out much too soon and I usually go through at least one a year.
The KT brand, wheels, abrasives and tools carried by most farm stores around here just don't last.
Same for their grinding wheels
Even the higher priced wheels like the ones found at our local hardware store which are packaged different are exactly the same as the cheaper KT brand once opened up and compared.
 
Dave Smith said:
I have always used wire wheels a lot for cleaning parts, and I am 79 now. the only wire brushes I use are stainless fine wires and they must be rated for at least 6 thousand rpm. they never throw wires and last forever on a 1725 rpm motor. I don't wear a face shield--just glasses to keep debris out of my eyes. you don't need high speed and I do not use any guards around the wheels.--- they are much safer without guards. don't have a rag in your hand or loose clothing close to the wheel. if you have a wire wheel that throws loose wires then throw it away, it will only get worse. it takes good knowledge and practice to use wire wheels effectively and not getting hurt. an old 1725 rpm double non enclosed long shaft motor works best for cleaning bolts and parts. you don't need 3450 rpm, 1725 is plenty and much safer. I will look to see if I can find the brand names of the stainless ones I use--- I know they are rated for 6k rpm for sure. ***they are Osborn narrow 6,000 rpm rated stainless .006 crimped wires.

Dave
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Dave,
Thanks so much for your input. This is just the information I was seeking. I have a couple grinders stored, one with an old buffing wheel last used many moons ago. I was thinking it is time to get it out and remove remove the other guard and stone and install two wire wheels. Now with your recommendation, I need to search my storage areas and see if I can locate a 1725 rpm motor. I'll leave the stone wheels on my good high speed grinder. Until now I had never heard of Osborn wheels. However, after some research, it is clear they are one of the leaders in wire wheel production. Hundred of verious styles and sizes. Thanks again Dave. I'm only 62 but hoping I can still play in my workshop at 79! Take care,
Danny
 
I have an old (around 40 years) Black & Decker 6" grinder. It still has the original wire wheel that it came with. It is wearing out by getting smaller in diameter, not by throwing wires. I will soon need to replace it due to the wear. I am sure that the same wheel is no longer available. I use it a lot for rust and crud cleanup and deburring after the cut off saw.
The key with a wire wheel is to let the machine do the work. You pushing the work in harder does not make it work faster, pushing harder just flexes the wires farther causing them to fatigue and break and become body seeking missiles and actually makes them work slower. When you push in hard you are now using the side of each wire and not the sharp end of the wire, The only part that is cleaning is the very tip of the wire.
There are time where you do have to push a bit harder to get the tips down into a crevice or corner. But I avoid that as much as possible. I often go to a smaller wheel on the hand drill or even Dremel that will better fit in there.
 
I try to buy good stuff. Wheels that say Bosch or Osborn on them are good stuff. Cheap wheels send wire darts at all angles. I use the wire wheel almost daily in the shop, so it's worth the $80 for a wheel that will work better and last 5x as long as the $20 wheel.

Once, about 20 years ago, I was in the ER at a German hospital getting ultrasound for trauma bleeding around my kidneys. Long story, but I fell off of a vehicle backwards and hit the ground and the $250k piece of equipment I was removing did not because I was safely clutching it on top of me, so for that I got to visit the ER. Anyway, a dude came in from one of the ball bearing factories hollering in pain with a crimped piece of wire from a wire wheel sticking out of his eyeball. The admission nurse crossed her arms and blocked the doorway, telling him that the eye doctor was still open for another 30 minutes on this summery Friday afternoon. She actually called him a taxi and put him down in it to catch the eye doc. Wierd. I'd have hated to be in that guy's situation, maybe I was better off with my mild internal bleeding. Anyway, the wire in the eye really happens, I seen it with my own two.
 
The brass wheels we use in at work for die cleaning end up in shirts and jackets while some migrate south to your skibbies . SOB , one wire can cause great pain when in a bad place . :eek::cussing:
 
I use a cheap (who knows where it came from, I've been using it for **years** steel wire wheel on a Craftsman grinder that I bought back when "Craftsman" had the ring of quality about it - yep, the 80's. I run a carding wheel (at least part time) on my buffer, for fine work. I find both relatively indispensible. I have never had problems with high velocity wire strands flying all over the place, but I *do* sedulously wear safety glasses around grinders of any sort. I like both, and having experienced them, "need" both... Knotted / twisted wheels are for angle grinders, imo. Although a bunch of the negatives are really about work holding - people under-estimate the work holding requirements of grinding and buffing. I like a 'soft landing zone' for important bit that you're (usually) buffing. And good workholding. Hand holding is convenient, but you're going to have parts whipped to the floor... (ask me how I know...)

GsT
 
I find that he best source for wire brushes is my local welding supply. They carry Weiler products, and I have been very happy with their performance. Welding supply stores cater to professionals, so they must stock items that perform well.
 
I’ve used Forney brand and it’s held up pretty well. I’m not gentle with my equipment and it’s still kicking, so I’d recommend that brand. I’ve asked ProjectFarm to test out wire wheels over a year ago. I hope he does one day.
 
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