Recommendations And Suggestions.

If you look at my sig you will see that I have both the Charter Oak and a PM25 (older model). I added the DRO to the PM as well as gutted the gear drive and replaced it with a belt drive. IMO, this v-belt drive I bought is lacking in a few areas and will need to be modified. The new PM comes with a BLDC motor/drive which typically has better torque that brushed type DC motors. This is what I will be upgrading to on this mill. The DRO isn't difficult to install on this size machine. It was more trouble installing it on the LMS because of it's size. :)

I would recommend the PM25MV over any of your other choices because of the better column mount, the BLDC motor and the ribbed belt drive. That and his kick-arse service is second to none. :)

You can upgrade to the Charter Oak later...LOL. ;)
 
nessimibrahim said:
Which would be easier and more importantly cheaper to do add DRO to the PM or to change out the gear drive and motor of the G0704?
Click to expand...
You can buy the belt drive conversion kit for $350 here that fits the G0704/G0759:

http://www.benchtopprecision.com/bf20_belt_drive_kit.html

You can see that once I add G0704 price + belt drive, you are paying the price of the PM25MV (not even counting the price of the motor upgrade). I would go the PM25MV route.

DRO install isn't too difficult. Matt also sells DROs (installed) if you want to buy them at the same time as the mill. If you look at what he charges, you will see that he is essentially throwing in installation free. BTW, the Easson 3A is essentially the same thing Grizzly sells on the G0759.
 
All the points you both make with regards to the two are exactly why I gonna go with the PM25MV which it came with a solid column but oh well everything else is exactly how i would want it configured. Only thing now is that I'm gonna have to wait til the the 25th of april when they have some in stock. Thank you guys for taking the time to help and provide your knowledge and wisdom.
 
I, too, chose the MP25, added 2 dimension DRO (the head comes quipped with it.) My work envelope will fit within it. While waiting for the end of April, I'm looking for and picking up new and used tooling from Ebay. I've endmills, but no holders. The collets, well, I was taught collets are for workholding. I've got a little lathe for turning parts, won't need to do it on the mill.
 
Well looks like were all waiting for the end of april for the PM-25mv. Placed my order this morning with Matt and put down my deposit like the rest of you gentlemen. From the information that you all have provided me with im more then confident that it will suit my needs for now and later down the road as my needs and experience grow. Usually i would be dreading having to wait for even a couple of weeks much less a month before it is even sent out in my direction. But going to take advantage of the time by gathering all needed tools and/ accessories as well as anything to look out for or modify/improve to the PM-25mv. Again I wanna thank you guys for the advice and input.
 
Welcome to the forum, what type of firearm are you planning to build? I ask because I am getting close to attempting to machine an AR lower from 6061.
 
wrmiller said:
My major problem with the 761 is the typical Y travel limitation of most of the RF45 clones. You have over 9" of table depth and can't get to 2" of it. But this may or may not be a killer for you.

If you are turning your garage into a workshop, then you might consider starting small and then adding larger machines when you need/can afford them. I am finding that I really do like having two mills and two lathes because I can have different setups on them, and if need be one can make parts for the other if something breaks. I will admit that most people are not likely to want to do something like this though. :)
Click to expand...
The Y travel on the 761 can be remedied fairly easy. First get rid of the accordion way cover on the column and use a flat neoprene sheet (cost $15 for 12”x48”) to protect the ways and if you want more front travel you can cut some casting away on the base. You should be able to get approx 10” of travel without changing the base. We also did some changes on our PM833t getting over 12” of y travel. Most the time we never use that much. Usually 8-9” of y travel is more than enough.
 
tmarks11 said:
True, But the next Grizzly machine up that gives you more than 7" of travel is going to cost $3500... and at that price, you are within striking distance of a full size knee mil (with 12" of travel), which is way more capable.

It is always the gradual spec creep that empties your pocket book. Or freezes you with indecision, and you never buy a machine as you try to justify upsizing your purchase.

I was happy with a Clausing 8520 (with 7" of Y travel) for years...

There is the Charter Oak manual machine ($2350 + shipping) with 12" of travel...

Welcome to Hobby Machinist... we are here to spend your money....

Think about what you want to start making, and match your machine to those dimensions. Don't over-think and over-spend until you have tried it and know this is for you.
Click to expand...

Wow! I got 12" quill travel on my LMS Mini Mill with a simple modification to it for length and stability.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top