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Recommendations for small tap handle
- Thread starter DavidR8
- Start date
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2017
- Messages
- 2,138
Actually, there are several tap handles I use, each for different situations.
First and foremost, the tap, of any size, must be as square as possible to the drilled hole. True whether the tap is HSS or Carbon Steel. With that said, if you are using a drill press/vertical mill to drill the hole, use the same machine for running the tap. That's about as square as you're gonna get in a home shop. If you don't have a high dollar mill, the hole may not be square to the work. But then, the tap will be true to the hole, not necessarily the work.
When I was building electrical panels on site, I used the same drill for drilling and tapping the sheet metal back pan. Low grade steel, a fuzz less than 1/8 inch. The drill had two speeds, I used slow for both drilling and tapping. That way I didn't need to remember which was which. Nr10-24s were considered expendables by the tool rooms.
Working "freehand", usually at home, I use a "T" handle tap holder. A good one, Starrett et al, will have secondary notches in the jaws to handle smaller sizes. They are available in several sizes, I have some but don't have near all.
Running a tap in the tailstock of the lathe, an "old school" tap handle works well enough. The sort where one end screws down a notched plate to grip the tap in the middle. The wrench that comes with a "cheap" set~~~
For my small taps, below #4 or so, I use a "Pin Vise". The 1/8" collet fits most of my smaller taps. The biggest advantage of those is that the collet will slip before the tap stresses too much. For taps smaller than that, there are 3 more sizes, one closes to zero. X-Acto is the only name that comes to mind, but there are many sources, mostly cheaper than the name brand.
Most taps and handles will have a center hole or chamfered edge to accomodate a follower. It would be worthwhile to make one if you're doing a lot of tapping. Much of mine is in thin brass. Three or four pitches in brass is very forgiving. Aluminium is tenaceous, I have broken far more taps there than in steel. Zamak is largely aluminium, it takes the same care.
Technique is as important, or more so, than the wrench. Patience is the biggest part. You can't run a tap in like a screw, it has to be eased in, backing and filling as you go. There are several good videos on the subject. My personal favorite is one that came out of WW2 making aircraft fuel pumps.
First and foremost, the tap, of any size, must be as square as possible to the drilled hole. True whether the tap is HSS or Carbon Steel. With that said, if you are using a drill press/vertical mill to drill the hole, use the same machine for running the tap. That's about as square as you're gonna get in a home shop. If you don't have a high dollar mill, the hole may not be square to the work. But then, the tap will be true to the hole, not necessarily the work.
When I was building electrical panels on site, I used the same drill for drilling and tapping the sheet metal back pan. Low grade steel, a fuzz less than 1/8 inch. The drill had two speeds, I used slow for both drilling and tapping. That way I didn't need to remember which was which. Nr10-24s were considered expendables by the tool rooms.
Working "freehand", usually at home, I use a "T" handle tap holder. A good one, Starrett et al, will have secondary notches in the jaws to handle smaller sizes. They are available in several sizes, I have some but don't have near all.
Running a tap in the tailstock of the lathe, an "old school" tap handle works well enough. The sort where one end screws down a notched plate to grip the tap in the middle. The wrench that comes with a "cheap" set~~~
For my small taps, below #4 or so, I use a "Pin Vise". The 1/8" collet fits most of my smaller taps. The biggest advantage of those is that the collet will slip before the tap stresses too much. For taps smaller than that, there are 3 more sizes, one closes to zero. X-Acto is the only name that comes to mind, but there are many sources, mostly cheaper than the name brand.
Most taps and handles will have a center hole or chamfered edge to accomodate a follower. It would be worthwhile to make one if you're doing a lot of tapping. Much of mine is in thin brass. Three or four pitches in brass is very forgiving. Aluminium is tenaceous, I have broken far more taps there than in steel. Zamak is largely aluminium, it takes the same care.
Technique is as important, or more so, than the wrench. Patience is the biggest part. You can't run a tap in like a screw, it has to be eased in, backing and filling as you go. There are several good videos on the subject. My personal favorite is one that came out of WW2 making aircraft fuel pumps.
Bill Hudson
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- Jan 31, 2016
- Messages
- 11,430
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- Joined
- Mar 3, 2017
- Messages
- 744
For freehand tapping, the tee handles are terrible (small taps are easy to break, and you have to shift grip
to turn them). I like to put a Jacobs chuck into a cordless screwdriver (cylinder-shank type); the
big handle makes it easy to see when the tap is going in straight, and the thumb button action
means you can machine the holes ie a smooth in/out sequence.
Ratcheting tee handles are second-best, IMHO, but are suited to tighter spaces.
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2012
- Messages
- 9,422
I use a Big Gator tap guide when freehand tapping so I go in straight. For small taps, 1/4" and under, I use a Starrett 91A. It is far easier to use than the T-handle type and holds taps better. A slight twist of one handle to lock the tap in and a slight twist to release it, but it won't let go until you let it go. I use a 91B for larger taps.
In the drill press or mill, I use a Walton piloted tap driver. Very accurate but no longer made.
In the drill press or mill, I use a Walton piloted tap driver. Very accurate but no longer made.
- Joined
- Feb 9, 2017
- Messages
- 5,240
I use what came with my Blue Point, Craftsman and Greenfield sets. They are all quality and work as good as could be expected. But the best investment I've made having already good taps and dies is a tap machine like this. Over the last 4yrs I've probably tapped over 100 holes and not broken a single tap since I got this. Straight clean threads everytime.
