Removing a Jacobs drill chuck from an Atlas Drill Press

C

cvuxton

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter Gold Member
Joined
Jan 7, 2013
Messages
16
upload_2017-10-12_16-31-24.png

I have an Atlas DP similar to this one. The Jacobs 6A chuck could use some help but I'm having trouble getting it off. I used a set of wedges and all is seems to do is increase the gap between the chuck and the 2 rings above it. The spline seems to be pulling down as the gap increases. What am I doing wrong here?

Thanks.
 
Where and how are you installing the wedges? And are they chuck wedges?
 
I'm putting them between the chuck and the bottom of the two rings above it.
 
Can you post a photo of the arbor where you are placing the wedges? Does the DP have a morse taper arbor? If it does that would make it easier as you wouldn't have to do it on the machine.

Those Jacobs wedges suck sometime, I hate using wedges when I have too.

A few days ago I had to remove the chuck off my cheap lil benchtop Craftsman DP. The chuck was stubborn as it had been on there for a while. I had to heat it up, sprayed some Kroil on it. Let it soak & cool off. Then I reheated the chuck, sprayed the arbor with freezer spray, then the chuck popped right off using the wedges.
 
Likely a Morse taper
Run the spindle all of the way down and you will likely find that there is a slot through the spindle, if you can see the tang through the slot drive a Morse wedge through it and it will drive the adapter out, exactly like the tailstock ram on a lathe.

If it has been in there for generations you may need a BFH, if it is a Jacobs taper good luck. I try not to leave tapers in lathe tailstocks when they are not being used, sometimes months will pass and the tool may grow fond of its home. Remove the tool and stuff a rag in the hole when not being used.
 
Does that chuck have a collar with spanner holes above it? If so, you don't need wedges....just a spanner.
 
Well...no joy no matter what. I ran the spindle down and there's no slot. I tried unscrewing the two collars above the chuck, after tapping the chuck back up. Nope. I locked the spindle and the shaft still moved down. As you can see from the pictures, someone has tried before, with a big hammer.
upload_2017-10-13_11-20-5.png So now, seeing as the shaft wants to come down can it be tapped all the way out and then try to persuade the darn thing to release. I've heard of applying heat, then Kroll or some such stuff, and then freeze.

The manual's explanation doesn't seem to do it.

Oh, about additional numbers, you can see in the photo 6A 33T.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top