I’d think about making a block that sits on the OD and secures to the thin part of the strap with a screw or two from the ID (countersunk to maintain flush ID) and a transverse screw into the thicker clamping section.
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Repair a 1 inch wide by 1/4 inch thick by 14 inch diameter round cast aluminum clamp
I think this is worth a try:
All you need is a propane torch and a way to fixture the pieces during soldering.
All you need is a propane torch and a way to fixture the pieces during soldering.
The picture does not seem to show 1"x1/4". It looks tapered to the edges and so not 1/4" thick? If it were a full 1/4 thick then you might consider making a new piece with dovetails on two ends, so that the male dove tails of new piece matched female dovetails of the original strap connected to each. You did say that the forces were essentially all in tension.
Al and most steels do not like each other... electrochemically. If the part never sees moisture this in not too serious. However, stainless and Al get along much better.
I like @Alcap comments. If you can move the clamping part it is better. Or add a clamping part to the other half of the broken ring end and then connect the bigger clamps together.
Sometimes it is easier to throw out the broken part and start over!
Al and most steels do not like each other... electrochemically. If the part never sees moisture this in not too serious. However, stainless and Al get along much better.
I like @Alcap comments. If you can move the clamping part it is better. Or add a clamping part to the other half of the broken ring end and then connect the bigger clamps together.
Sometimes it is easier to throw out the broken part and start over!
- Joined
- Mar 25, 2013
- Messages
- 4,613
This replacement is only $460.
telescopes.net
But if you look at how it is made the material is much thicker and the mounting flat is much heavier. You could consider cutting a whole new piece out of aluminum plate with a bandsaw. (That's what I would do)
Alternatively, I would consider cutting of the old mounting tab and replacing it with a longer version that goes over the crack. You could attach this to the band with multiple flat head screws. I do see a problem that the outside of the band is not flat. You might have to sand or grind a flat to attach the tab.
Robert
Parallax - 12" Extra Heavy Duty Tube Rings- for 10"-12" Refractors
Parallax - 12\" OD Extra Heavy Duty Tube Rings for 10\"-12\" RefractorsThese 12\" outside diameter split tube rings are made of extra heavy die-cast aluminum, finished in gloss black paint, and lined with felt
telescopes.net
But if you look at how it is made the material is much thicker and the mounting flat is much heavier. You could consider cutting a whole new piece out of aluminum plate with a bandsaw. (That's what I would do)
Alternatively, I would consider cutting of the old mounting tab and replacing it with a longer version that goes over the crack. You could attach this to the band with multiple flat head screws. I do see a problem that the outside of the band is not flat. You might have to sand or grind a flat to attach the tab.
Robert
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2018
- Messages
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And a picture changes everything. Is the block to the right of the break in the picture part of the clamp casting or is it a separate piece?
I don't believe so. The aluminum bar is attached to a raised surface on the band. The bar attaches via bolts into the raised surface.
That is a good word for it. The block to the right is part of the casting. The break is effectively at the edge of the block. The block's purpose is to support the bar which in turn is used to mount the scope.
I had not gotten to a single piece, however I had considered 3 pieces bolted together at the 2 joints. I have a cnc mill so it would be straight forward to mill the arc and joints. I haven't closed on this yet, but it appears promissing. Dan