Repairing destroyed vise

The Metalset A4 product is not cheap, $20 for 11oz. I may have to pick up the 11oz size to give this a try next time I visit the store.

$20.00 AND $18.00 plus for shipping to me.... Ordered from a calif. distributer they had 6oz at $8.95 and shipping was better as they are closer to me.
Odd they have 6oz as the smooth-on site didn't show it.
 
I'm working on making some AXA tool holders. Once I'm done them tomorrow I'll take the vise apart and try the JB weld. I have two packages since the holes are many and significant.
 
I don't think I have seen it mentioned on this thread, but if it has, then ignore.

JB weld has at least two versions.. One is KWIK which sets up fairly quickly, as in not much open time. Then there is the regular JB weld that says "liquid" for much longer open time and has more ultimate shear strength. I use the longer one when ever I can, even though it may need damming as has been mentioned. Both come in two part tubes.

David
 
In my opinion, for your consideration, Ni-Rod or Certanium is the best for cast. That stuff is around $30-50 a pound. Aside from that, I'd just preheat it and use a Mig. Migs work pretty good on any good casting. (Gas-shielded) Preheat to 500 degrees (check it with a digital thermometer) weld it up, then wrap it in a welding blanket or bury it in sand to let it cool as slow as possible. Grind it out after or mill it if you have the option. You're only doing cosmetic work so you should have no issues with cracks.
My buddy ran a 2" hole-saw almost through the table on my Chinese drill press. He's an Industrial Electrician and everyone knows that they need supervision; my fault. (Good thing that I didn't let him use the mill). Anyway, I welded it up, cold, with the mig, ground it down, blended it in; no cooling, no issues. And that's on a thin, cheap casting.
Oxy Acetylene Brazing would be my second choice but gas welding procedures introduce a lot of heat into the weldment. A vise should be able to take it but still let her cool as slow as possible.
J.B. - type products; I have less confidence/experience with. I worry about the possibility of oil infiltration causing an eventual bond-failure. Then again it is, largely, only cosmetic and that would be the simplest solution.
Bottom line, regardless of what procedure you choose; get it clean, clean. Acetone or Tolulene, Methyl Hydrate, etc.
 
A4 is aluminum filled, just so you know.
http://www.aircraftspruce.ca/menus/cs/epoxy_metalset.html

There are other brands of steel filled epoxies vs. JB but more expensive. Really, for what amounts to a cosmetics, try some JB & see how it goes.
https://www.jbweld.com/collections/metal/products/j-b-weld-professional-size

The biggest challenge you will have is getting a nice surface for the epoxy to adhere to. The Neanderthal over-drill holes & gouges will provide surface texture 'tooth' but its also had a life of oils, cutting fluids & whatever soaking on it. Unless that is properly removed with solvents, I would think epoxy acting essentially as a surface putty might not stay put for long. But hey, if it Purdy's it up & makes you feel better, then its a worthwhile exercise.
 
It’ll get scrubbed and soaked in acetone. I always have some around, but I bought a big jug just for this purpose.
 
I soaked mine in Kerosene then after it was dried I sprayed it with electrical contact cleaner. The contact cleaner leaves no residue. Filled the holes with JB Weld til the epoxy was higher than the surface. I let it harden for a couple days to make sure it was hard all the way through and not just on the surface. I then machined the epoxy to within .001 - .002 above the original surface. I then removed the rest with files and finally a stone til the bottom was flat and level.
This fix was 4yrs ago and the vice bottom still looks as good as the day I fixed it. I have used all types of oils and water soluable coolants with no problems.
 
I have a vice similar to yours, but made in Australia. Probably a war-time licensed copy.
It was is very similar condition too. I managed to make it look quite respectable using preheat and nickel arc welding rod. Overfilled the hole and dings and then cooled slowly in ash. I then milled all repaired surfaces, finishing off grinding the flat for the parallels on the surface grinder. There were dings in the bottom - maybe from dropping it - so I stoned all those flat and even scraped the bottom flat to make sure, before surface grinding the top of the slide (for the parallels). Works and looks great now.
 
Here's a clean look at the vise.
IMG_20171223_010125.jpg


I have a funny feeling this particular hole wasn't stock.... I think I found what crashed the quill power feed...
IMG_20171223_010130.jpg
 
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