Repulsion-Induction motor

AC motors came in several different flavors since Tesla pioneered the idea- the starting circuit has seen the biggest evolution as the commutator was discarded in favor of a phase shifting capacitor and centrifugal switch for a good compromise of starting torque, efficiency and manufacturing cost.
Unfortunately your motor can't be easily reversed electrically like modern ones, but that may not be a deal breaker for your application
M
ps I'm taking an educated guess here, but I believe rather than "110 volt" and "220 volt" wires, the windings are connected either parallel or series, respectfully, to accommodate the two voltages
 
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Flyinfool said:
. On your dryer the white is only there for the 110V light bulbs.
Click to expand...
On a dryer the drum motor, lights, timer (electronic or mechanical) all run on 110, the only thing that uses 220 is the heating element.

Back in the old days when many houses were still wired with fuses rather than circuit breakers this would cause a lot of unnecessary calls to appliance repairmen. If the fuse blew on the leg that wasn't powering the motor the dryer would still run but not heat. People would think the heating element burned out and would call the repairman, never thinking it was just a fuse.
 
That's true, and on the subject of dryers, the 3 prong outlet used the neutral as a ground for the chassis
 
ITS ALIVE!!! The motor works and didn't burn up! Sure are a few sparks from the brushes when it starts, but it is smooth running. The reverse works as well, though there are more sparks in the other direction. I would assume that over time (starts) there would be fewer sparks as the brushes wear back in, or is that simply a property of this style of motor?
So, funny story. Turns out that you can wire up a motor, a switch and a plug but if the wires in the breaker box are not connected a motor will not run.... Sigh, sometimes being a moron means that others get a good laugh at your expense.
Regardless, THANK YOU EVERYONE who helped out with this! People here are smart and awsome!
Edwin
 
This is more than saving a motor from a landfill. Ed and I spent over an hour trying to figure this out and wire a breaker in a box. Bit worried about it since I was 700 miles away on the telephone. P.S. I don't think anyone one on this site thinks that you are a moron and laughing at you.
 
Good to hear you got it going. You mentioned more sparking in one direction than the other. Just curious, are the brushes mounted at a right angle to the commutator or are the at an angle in relation to the comm? Leading or trailing depending on direction of rotation. If they are at an angle this could lead to increased spark in one direction over the other. It will work either way but a radial (right angle) mounting is better for a reversible motor.
 
Ok, so I know the motor works. Now I have more questions.
Each end of the motor has 2 oil caps. One is on the top of the bearing (and has a felt wick), and the other one is on the side and has a screw-on cap. Are these both actually oil cups as I thought, or have I been putting oil somwhere I shouldn't be? Whats with the second oil cup on each side?
What type of oil should I actually be using on this thing. Right now I've been using some 30wt that I have (with the motor having sat so long without oil, I'd rather have incorrect oil than none at all), but in the long run I'd like to use something better suited to the motor.
When I switch from one direction to another, is there a sweet spot, or does it really matter where I actually locate the communicator's where ever they work? Z2V, the brushes do have a slight angle to them, I guess that would mean that the motor is designed to run in one direction more than the other? If so, I probably won't fool with that much. With a threaded spindle I don't reverse all that much, but it is nice to have the ability.
Unfortunately, there is very little to no information on the Delco motors, that I've been able to find anyway. Does anyone have some literature on them?
 
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