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Restoring a Deckel S0 tool & cutter grinder

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GreatOldOne

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#1
So, I managed to snag an honest to goodness Deckel on eBay for buttons. I’m going to be restoring it, and switching out the motor from the existing 3 phase to a brand new single phase. New paint, de rusted, handles re finished, new or reblacked hardware... the works.

She needs it...

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I’ve got it blown apart right now, so I have a bare casting ready for paint stripper, and all the steel parts are marinating in evaporust. I’ve also stripped the spindle assembly and got the old bearings and grease out, and ordered replacement SKF equivalents. The shaft the hold the work head and the shaft the holds the motor plate fought me all the way... they where held in by taper pins that appeared to be immovable. And it would seem inserted whilst the casting was being made (that or pixies climbed inside and used tiny hammers). I ended up drilling them out. I’ll replace them with appropriately sized bolts when it goes back together, so it saves future generations the hassle. ;)

More pics as I progress.
 

Eddyde

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#2
Nice score! Looks like only light surface rust, should clean up beautifully. Please keep us posted of your progress.
 

brino

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#3
"Watching", thanks for sharing!
 

MAKEITOUTOFWOOD

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#4
Great score. Look forward to seeing progress on this project.
 

thomas s

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#5
Nice find will be watching this rebuild.
 

Holescreek

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#6
Looks to be about the same age as mine. Nice score!
 

Bob Korves

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#7
I recommend that you think about using a three phase motor, perhaps the original one, and use it with a VFD. You will have infinite speed control and the motor will run smoother, giving a better surface finish. There are other benefits as well.

Edit: Looking at the configuration of the original motor makes me think in that direction even more.
 

Holescreek

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#8
The SO is such a specialized grinder, I'm curious what plans you have for it?
 

GreatOldOne

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#9
The SO is such a specialized grinder, I'm curious what plans you have for it?
Playing about with D bits, sharpening end mills ala Stefan G, possibly regrinding drill bits, as it’s possible (so I’ve read).

I recommend that you think about using a three phase motor, perhaps the original one, and use it with a VFD. You will have infinite speed control and the motor will run smoother, giving a better surface finish.
I’ll keep that in mind if the single phase I’ve got in doesn’t work out. Speaking of which, it was derived this morning:
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A little bit of bench testing. Runs smooth and quiet. I also found a NVR switch in my electrics stash when I was looking for some cable to hook it up with, so I’ll use that when I put it together for real. The pully will need boring out a little to accommodate the new motors shaft size.

I mentioned earlier it was all blown apart. I wasn’t kidding.


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The stuff in boxes has been through the evaporust, and it’s done it’s usual job. Just needs a clean to get rid of the residue it leaves. The long rod is the bar the work head attaches to (the one that gave me the bother) that hasn’t been treated yet.

Under all that dirt though:
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It’s imperial. Damn. I’m a metric man... :D

The postman also dropped off the plating and blacking chemicals his morning as well

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And I expect the new bearings for the spindle to arrive tommorow, so I should be able to rebuild that over the weekend - as well as make a start on stripping the paint. It looks like it isn’t the first time it’s been done, as there’s grey and green paint on it, as well as the usual filler.
 

GreatOldOne

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#10
A busy morning. :)

Everything that was in the evaporust is now out, including the main mounting bar. All of it has been cleaned and anything that could be was mounted on the lathe, spun up and polished with scotchbrite.
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The postman delivered the new bearings for the spindle, so I decided to rebuild that next.
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The spindle consists of a sleeve, shaft with integral pulley, two bearings, rear and front dust covers, two Belleville washers and two pin wrench nuts.
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The larger ID bearing goes to the front, the smaller to the rear. I packed them with grease before installing. The front dust shield is press fit onto the sleeve.
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The rear bearing with shaft pressed through, and the rear dust shield ready to go on. This spins with shaft, and the washers and nuts lock it all together.
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My next job will be to strip the castings. They’re all ready to go
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And then one I’ve done that, it’s time to mask up and paint. I’m going to use this - never tried Rust-Oleum before... but as I wanted green, and there was no smooth green hammerite at the local DIY ship, I thought I’d try it, as all you guys seem to swear by it. :)
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GreatOldOne

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#11
Another busy day. Hubble bubble...
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The nitromors does an ok job, if you follow the instructions to the letter. The small stuff cleaned up well, apart from the remnants of some red oxide primer (I think) and some stubborn filler on the wheel guard.
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The main body was a different matter. This was it after one treatment with the stripper:

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There was a lot of stubborn paint left behind. I think mainly due to me leaving the stuff on too long and letting it dry out. That’s what comes from being interrupted by SHMBO. ;)

A second dose did for most of the residual stuff.
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Anything else will be dealt with by some emery cloth. As you can see, stuff I’d done earlier was already starting to flash rust.
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So I dunked all the smaller pieces back in the evaporust to protect them. I’ll try and put the motor base plate (the square piece) and the wheel guard in it tommorow when I fish the small bits out. The main casting will just have to go rusty with dignity until I get round to painting it. Which might be after some filler... I don’t know. I’m not that bothered about the foundry marks in the casting - what do you guys think?

I also managed to get the pulley cleaned up and mounted on the new motor. The new motor shaft was only 1mm bigger than the bore, so it was an easy job to enlarge it to 10.5mm and ream to 11mm.

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GreatOldOne

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#12
I’ve managed to sort out the electrics. The NVR switch is mounted in a IP55 rated box, which has been mounted to the side of the main casting.

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Power comes in the bottom of the box, into the switch, then out through the rear of the box. The earth goes straight through but is also attached to the casting via one of the mounting screws.
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Technically I didn’t need to do that, as the motor is earthed and it’s connected to the casting via the motor mount... but I guess it’s better to be safe.

I’ve also filled all the major divots on the casting, and sanded it back ready for paint.

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I’ve also run taps through all the tapped holes on it, so all it needs now is masking... which is a tedious job. I did some of the smaller bits whilst I waited for the filler to set up.

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Hopefully next time you see it it’ll be green. :cool:
 

thomas s

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#13
Your doing a great job can't wait to see it complete
 

GreatOldOne

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#14
It ain’t easy, being green.:frog::cool:

Finished masking all the parts up

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And then had at it with the paint.

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I’m really pleased with the colour. It (the Rust-Oleum paint) covers well. I guess time will tell on how durable it is.

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It’s all back in the workshop to dry overnight now. I might be able to start putting some of it back together again soon! :eek::p
 

T Bredehoft

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#15
If it were mine, I'd let it dry a couple of days then put it in the (baking) oven at 175-200 for two hours, turn it off and let it cool to Room Temp. You can't dig a thumbnail into it, once baked.
Looks good, nice job.
 

GreatOldOne

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#16
I couldn’t help myself. I’ve redone the machine tag, like I did on my Kurt D688. So I had to see what it looked like... :D

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Laser printed asset tag label stuck onto the original aluminium tag, with a window cut for the serial number. Held on with M3 x 6 button head screws.
 

chips&more

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#17
Hello from across the pond. You are doing an over the top restoration! I have the same grinder. I use it primarily for sharpening my Gorton pantograph cutters and does an excellent job of it. There is reading and talk about other capabilities it can do but I have other grinders that do a better and faster job. I will be watching with enthusiasm to see how my different grind jobs you can perform with it…Dave
 

Janderso

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#18
Great job,
When I retire, I plan on refurbishing some old, lovely US made iron.
Good job, great journey.
 

GreatOldOne

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#19
Lots of progress today. It’s starting look like a grinder again, rather than a collection of parts.

Motor mounting rod back in and re-pinned, and the work head main rod reinstalled with the sweep adjust arm attached with a countersunk screw.

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Motor located and fixed onto the plate, and the plate slid onto the mounting rod. The drive cord is in place as well.

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Electrical box screwed back onto the casting, and all the wiring is all reconnected. The fine / micrometer adujust is also back on, as is the wheel guard and the dressing arm, which now sports a diamon dresser I picked up cheap on amazon. The first part of the work head is on the rod as well, as it had to be in place when the main rod was put back in.

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My adventures in brush plating have been disappointing, to say the least. I was probably expecting too much, but the first aadjusting lever I tried to do just didn’t seem to do anything. I also tried a knurled thumb screw as well, and I’m sure it looked better prior to me trying than after. Hmmmm. Maybe I’ll just polish them. The other thumb screws and knobs look ok, and that just good ole super fine scotchbrite.

Blacking the parts that are supposed to be black was much more successful

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The gel I got from caswell does a good job.

Anyway, it’s alive! Alive! :D

 

GreatOldOne

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#20
So, the tool head is back together. Thank goodness for the online maintainence manual here:

https://www.clockmaker.it/files_for...filabulini_deckel/monografia_affilabulini.pdf

It helped to identify some missing woodruff keys, which I’ve ordered. But it’s all gone back together.
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I’m going to try and print out some replacement scales for the cross slide, as the ones on there have worn so much you can’t make anything out on them.

I’ve also started on adding a light to the grinder, similar to what would have been on there (but didn’t come with it). I picked up a cheap single gu10 spotlight for the diy store, with an led bulb. I stripped the base off it, and found a mains capable switch in my parts bin.
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The manual shows the lamp suspended from a tube that slots into the top of the main casting, so I got some 10mm anodised aluminium tube, bent it up and checked it out. Left it long for now so I can gauge where to cut it. I’ll turn a small collar that will slip on the end and screw into the lamp stem.
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Just to make sure the lamp wouldn’t be too heavy, I hung it off the tube. Looks ok. ;)
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Janderso

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#21
It looks great!
Good Job. I'm jealous.
 

GreatOldOne

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#22
And here’s the finished article. Everything back in place, light wired up, new wheel mounted. Very happy with how it’s all turned out.

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I went with a smaller push button for the lamp switch, and located it on the top of the electrical box.
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I have one 12mm collet, and then what I assume is a mix of imperial. Only the 3/8” one still has a readable size marked on it, so I’ll measure the others and try to engrave the size back in at some point.

But there you go. From a rusty hunk of cast iron and steel to working grinder. :)
 
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