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Restoring a Kurt Vise / Vice

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GreatOldOne

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#1
I managed to get a used D688 on eBay, and I’m going to restore it.

4F27C009-3E7D-4B1D-BB23-FD22143D9A5A.jpeg

I’ve already remachined the tops of the jaws, to get rid of all the gouges and dings:


FF8A73A5-6712-47BC-BB9D-E95AD0A03FF4.jpeg 026A38F3-04F5-41F5-908B-5703C22F4456.jpeg

And now I’ve managed to completely strip it down. Here’s the state of all the service items. Good job they’re all being replaced. Yuck.

85CCAB42-9817-4D48-A90A-0C085C1D81E8.jpeg

The screw and nut look good, and the hardwear is currently relaxing in an evaporust spa tub along with the fixed jaw, to remove surface rust.

09535AE9-D7F0-40F4-A34A-0A1C19DF61CE.jpeg B580AADA-BF89-4FEF-9434-DBA078F534FA.jpeg

0E26768D-CEBE-4264-B6DB-1B8E1C7748EE.jpeg

A couple of queries though before I start doing anything else. All of the cap head screws on it have head metric sized hex sockets. The large ones for the fixed jaw are 14mm - I ended up using this and a 17mm socket / breaker bar combo to remove them.

13E26551-5349-4040-8E89-3D94D30AD3F5.jpeg

Is that normal for imperial / English sized fasteners?

And the serial number plate is held on with drive screws. Opinions on the best way to remove them? Or just mask over when I repaint the body as all that’s left on it is the punched numbers.

E2EAB2E2-37E9-4839-9638-E5312892C6C9.jpeg
 

Redmech

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#2
That’ll be great. Going to get new paint?
 

GreatOldOne

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#4
So all the surfaces that I machined on the jaws have been polished / lapped / whatever. Lots of different grades of wet and dry, a surface plate and a lot of elbow grease. Who needs a surface grinder :p (I do! No room though) 5484E312-1AD6-4766-9C66-9A51FE997EE5.jpeg
 

GreatOldOne

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#5
More progress - the vast majority of the old paint has been removed from the body and nut now. I’ve been using Nitromors Gel, which does the job, but does take several applications. After seeing how well citrustrip works on various YouTube videos, I wish you could get it over here.

This is the second application doing its stuff.

181509F8-37BF-4B36-A036-0EF7B74EC3CE.jpeg

6B6DFA92-CA20-420F-A3A8-6502FB31CD80.jpeg

And here’s the final result.

D63E52FE-7BDE-46EB-B1A0-80E77EA54CE4.jpeg A6607ADB-10D3-49A6-B1CD-50744E0F9BCA.jpeg

I removed the serial number plate by grinding off the heads of the drive pins. There’s nothing on it bar the stamped number - all the other info has been worn off. Which is a shame.

80954733-5D94-4F38-BD91-6FDD9F4B14B7.jpeg

Next job - masking up and paint.
 

GreatOldOne

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#6
Degreased, masked & first coat of paint tonight:
9E0AAC69-2BB5-49F6-8DA5-58E6F7445A22.jpeg
50D0C085-C7AA-4458-9958-6489CCE741A5.jpeg
A2DC18F0-6426-4E89-9B53-F3AB07A8E1C7.jpeg
A789F619-7C85-4DCB-B151-D31406A4A39F.jpeg
006D4D17-5A31-4BCC-9746-53780CB56D18.jpeg
71B3603D-904F-422C-A96B-B27AC43FB175.jpeg
The paint is just run of the mill Hammerite smooth blue, bought at the local DIY store (B&Q, for us UK peeps). It seems to my eye at least to be pretty much a dead on match to the original Kurt paint.

https://www.hammerite.co.uk/product/direct-to-rust-metal-paint-smooth-finish/

I’ll let that dry overnight, and give it another coat tomorrow after work.
 

dlane

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#7
Some paints need to fully cure/dry before second coat if after an hour from first coat, should be in the directions .
 

GreatOldOne

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#8
It’s 4 hours between coats according to the instructions on the tin. :encourage:
 

GreatOldOne

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#9
Three coats of paint later, and with the tape removed, it’s looking pretty spiffy.

1A4F3398-B064-48F3-9BFC-60093CC99088.jpeg CA1313B3-F064-48DD-9F2F-435DF816D4CB.jpeg 46C80292-C754-48CC-BE1B-069B0C5FAB1F.jpeg 31B710A3-D4C9-4C2C-B668-30760A19EC5F.jpeg

(I was “working from home.” Shhhh. ;))

What to do about the serial number tag though? Leave it as is, or attempt to get the Kurt logo etc back on it? I doubt anything I did to restore the tag would be very durable... so leave it as is?
 

Cadillac

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#10
I’d put it back so at least maybe you can read the impression of Kurt. Just so if you resell they don’t think it’s a knock off.
You said you have a surface plate. Put vise on there and see how your cutting did on the jaws.
 

dlane

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#11
McMaster has drive screws, last time I checked
 

GreatOldOne

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#12
McMaster has drive screws, last time I checked
McMaster Carr don’t have a UK presence, unfortunately. I do have some drive pins coming with the rebuild kit, though.
 

GreatOldOne

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#13
Okay, so now I’m confused.

C86188CB-2205-47A8-A4F9-97C1FEDE3D54.jpeg

The cap head screws on the D688 are parts 4 & 8, and there’s the dog point set / grub screw 14. These are given to be 5/8-11 X 3 & 1/2-13 X 1-1/4 respectively... but they are most definitely not imperial on mine. I measured the long bolts to be M16 x 2, and the jaw and set screw to be M12 x 1.75 o_O

So - does Kurt change the fasteners for the rest of the world, has the previous owner swapped the hardware for more readily available metric ones, or is it a happy accident that the 1/2-13 is *exactly* the same as a standard M12 thread?

It does answer my question as to why my metric hex keys fit. But it also means that the replacement set screw I’ve got coming won’t fit... Ho hum. Nevermind - I can get something that works or reuse the one I’ve got.
 

GreatOldOne

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#14
So, I've got a cunning plan, my Lord... I've been busy using Pixelmator, and dredging up Kurt labels. And come up with this:

Kurt Plate.jpg

Without knowing the exact fonts they use, that's the closest I can get with the installed fonts on my Mac. But I'm pretty chuffed with the result, when compared with the real McCoy:

IMG_0588.jpg

The second part of the plan is printing that out at actual size, like this:

IMG_2002.JPG

On a laser printable, weather and oil resistant plastic, transparent label. Then sticking it on over the plate. I may also give it a coat or two of clear lacquer as well, just for some added protection, but the labels I've got are supposed to be good for workshop use.

More pics when I've got it printed out on the label. But first, work stuff is in the way (It's release day, and crypto functions don't appear on the test severs by themselves), plus I need to change the toner in my printer. :cool:
 

GreatOldOne

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#15
So, here are the results. Firstly, I did them on the transparent labels (non branded, found online)

7AD5332A-3337-427C-84F4-38E95898E3DD.jpeg 9C29CB18-4C72-4535-8BE0-20670904A329.jpeg
BBBED63D-7D69-4A60-A3E3-A480247C7705.jpeg
It was OK, but it wasn’t 100% happy. So I tried again with some silver waterproof / oil proof labels (Avery, from amazon. Used for asset tags etc) - this turned out much, much better. I just had to cut out the serial number window:
091B188F-9C3F-45C1-93B6-D5139A6B3E1F.jpeg
C3870882-4741-4F3E-A1AB-18DABE47B09F.jpeg
5D022F4E-FE38-42B1-B8EB-6F26B4880B45.jpeg
They even catch the light. :cool:

I’ll give it a coat of lacquer tommorow, but I’ve already attacked one of the spares with some oil and meths, and it shrugged it all off.
 

DHarris

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#16
Very creative Jason! I hope the parts in the mail are correct for you!!

Dave
 

GreatOldOne

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#17
If you like watching paint dry, this video is for you. What removes toner from a “special” label? Here’s the answer to a question you never knew you needed to know. :p

 

Cadillac

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#18
Very nice job looks OEM. Side job making fake Kurt vise with tag no import fees. :p
Were your jaw bolts metric?
 

GreatOldOne

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#20
It's complete! The parts arrived from @DHarris today, so I spent an hour or so reassembling it after work.

IMG_4548.jpg

IMG_0117.JPG
The fasteners on my vise are definitely metric; the setscrew I ordered doesn't fit. I've re-used the old one again (just cleaned it up a bit better). I also managed to get the part numbers wrong ('doh!) and got two 1/2"-13 socket heads, rather than the drive screws. They don't fit either M12 != 1/2"-13 :D

It's not a disaster though, as I did get everything else right, and the new Kurt decals look spiffy. All I need to do now is get it bolted on the mill and trammed in. :)


IMG_1542.JPG

Others may find these links useful. I did.

https://www.kurtworkholding.com/downloads/guides/D-Series_Rework.pdf
https://www.kurtworkholding.com/documents/online_D688.pdf
 
Last edited:

machPete99

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#21
For future reference on the drive screws...
I have had good luck removing them with a sharp narrow hardened steel wood chisel.
You need to come at it from opposite sides to loosen them up.
Plan on resharpening the chisel as often these screws are hardened and will chip the edge.
 
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