Restoring Jet 1024PY

I have 2 10x24s, one is the PY and the other is a off brand, Both have diff spindles, etc. and are the first larger lathes I have owned myself. Have Sherline lathe and mill that are great for real small stuff. The diff in spindles means that I cannot switch the stuff around which is a pain.
 
Well, after a year and a half, I think I can say that the "restoration" (maybe resurrection is a better term) is complete. This weekend I got the leadscrew and nut in the tailstock replaced. Apparently, the replacement of the leadscrew was not perfect: toward the end of the retracted movement, it get pretty tight. But that is mainly at the point where it is pushing out the MT3 mounted accessory (live center or drill chuck). As of now, everything appears to be more or less working.

Here is a list of most of what I have done to resurrect the lathe:
  • Had the quick-change gear cover brazed
  • Had the broken quick change gear lever brazed
  • Straightened (sort of) and brazed the carriage handwheel
  • Straightened the cross crossfeed leadscrew so it works without any binding
  • Installed furnace "barrel switch" to allow forward and reverse operation of the motor
  • Disassembled, cleaned, greased, and reassembled the 3-jaw and 4-jaw chucks
  • Drained, flushed, and refilled oil reservoirs in the headstock
  • Cleaned and oiled the ways
  • Disassembled, cleaned, oiled, and reassembled apron, cross-slide, and compound
  • 3-D printed a bearing bracket for the cross slide
  • Purchased a 4-way chuck for lathe on E-bay
  • Purchases and installed an MT-3 tailstock quill but was unable to connect it to the existing leadscrew.
  • Fabricated a lever action for the tailstock quill
  • Built backsplash and selves for lathe
  • Installed a 1/2 inch 8TPI leadscrew and nut in the tailstock
  • Purchased MT3 drill chuck and live center for tail stock
  • Fabricated a hand crank to turn the lathe headstock by hand for threading

Alone the way I have made a simple EZ steam engine, the Myfordboy simple boiler, and a dead center with a MT3 tapper for the tailstock. This has been a great project to get me going with my own machine lathe. While some of my efforts have been less than perfect as far as the results go (like the tailstock leadscrew that binds at one end of the travel), it is still very rewarding to resurrect this old, neglected, mistreated lathe to a functioning condition.

Thank you to all that have provided advice and information. I look forward to many more project with this new toy! I will post a few picture this evening to contract how the machine looks now compared to when it was first dropped off in my driveway a year and a half ago.
 
That's a lot of work. I look forward to your Picts. I think you will find your 1024PY a great little machine. My 1024P has aways done what I've needed.

It's possible the center line of your tail stock leadscrew is not completely concentric with the tail stock quill nut. It would present as you have described. As the quill gets closer to the fully retracted position, the effects of a non concentricity would be amplified.
 
DAT510 said:
It's possible the center line of your tail stock leadscrew is not completely concentric with the tail stock quill nut. It would present as you have described. As the quill gets closer to the fully retracted position, the effects of a non concentricity would be amplified.
Click to expand...
That is pretty much what I was thinking. The problem I had was that I could not fine a nut for the quill that matched the existing leadscrew (14mm x 8TPI). I bought a piece of 1/2" - 8TPI rod and a matching nut. I cut off the old leadscrew close to the bearing/handwheel section, center drilled, and the drilled this section. Next I turned the threaded rod to be a press fit in the drive piece and pressed it in. I suspect something in that process was not as concentric as it needed to be. If it get to where it is a real problem, I will push the threaded rod out of the drive piece and make a new drive piece. It is not a complicated piece, just several different OD, a female thread for the handwheel, and a center hole for the press fit of the threaded rod. I would probably use the bigger, newer, Grizzly lathe at the local Maker Space that I now have access to .
 
Here are some pictures of the results of the resurrected Jet 1024py. The first one is as it was delivered with notations as to some of the problems. Rest are as it looks now.
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wframe13 said:
Fabricated a hand crank to turn the lathe headstock by hand for threading
Click to expand...

I would be interested in seeing how you set this up.

The tail stock may be wear in the quill causing it to get tight at the end. as it is not as likely to be worn as much there, Or at least that is what I was thinking.
 
kvt said:
I would be interested in seeing how you set this up.

The tail stock may be wear in the quill causing it to get tight at the end. as it is not as likely to be worn as much there, Or at least that is what I was thinking.
Click to expand...

The crank is as simple as can be: a 5 inch long piece of 1" with a couple of hack saw cuts at one end and the other end welded to a 9 inch long piece of 1 inch square tubing with a handle on the other end. I turned a cone to spread the open, sliced end; drilled and threaded it to 5/16; drilled a hole through the handle to allow a 5/16 bolt to thread into the cone. To use, push the pipe with the cone into the outboard end of the drive spindle, tighten the bolt down enough to hold the pipe in the spindle, and crank away. To remove, loosen the bolt, tap it with a hammer. and pull it out.

WARNING - WARNING - WARNING: NEVER turn the lathe on while the crank is installed!
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Ok, I did not think or making an expanding cone type of connection to put inside the spindle. I'm wandering if it would also hold enough to assist when trying to loosen the chuck when stuck. A lot of people put it in back gear locking it, to loosen a stuck chuck, but that can be hard on the gears. I may have to build one and try it.
Thanks for the information.
 
I generally use the back gear for my chuck. I just move the back gear lever but do not release plunger pin on the bull gear. This keep everything locked. I suspect the crank could be used to hold or turn the spindle to unlock a chuck but have never tried it.

The crank is not as useful as I had hoped it would be. Turning the crank and turning the tailstock leadscrew hand wheel at the same time to feed the tap or die into the part can be a stretch. But considering how little time and material is invested in it, I'll keep it.
 
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