RF-30 Clone Head Alignment Guide

I use a dial indicator combined with a stop to bring the head back to position. Put the stop and DI against the spindle and zero the DI. Move the head wherever you need to and then bring it back until the DI reads zero again as the spindle touches the stop. Works for me.

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Finally finished my head alignment design (see posts #5,6,38 in this thread). Seems to work great, but I have not figured out the best way to test it with my equipment. I'm thinking about using my 14" B&S height gage from my surface plate, clamped to the mill table, and a dial test indicator mounted on the quill. I don't know how straight (or square to the base) the edge of the gage is, but it stands 15.5" tall.

I'd appreciate any suggestions. Here are pictures of the finished parts before and after installation.
 

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Garryloy said:
Finally finished my head alignment design (see posts #5,6,38 in this thread). Seems to work great, but I have not figured out the best way to test it with my equipment. I'm thinking about using my 14" B&S height gage from my surface plate, clamped to the mill table, and a dial test indicator mounted on the quill. I don't know how straight (or square to the base) the edge of the gage is, but it stands 15.5" tall.

I'd appreciate any suggestions. Here are pictures of the finished parts before and after installation.
Click to expand...
Maybe put a long-ish piece of ground round stock in a collet, and use your dial indicator (fixed to the table) to measure as you raise and lower the head? The only problem I could see with that is if your ground stock has any flaws.
 
I used a ground bar and a pillow block for head alignment. Works great.
 

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epanzella said:
I used a ground bar and a pillow block for head alignment. Works great.
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im thinking of doing two pillow block on each side...but bot connected to the mill...so if i go t sell it the stand stays with me. :p
 
I'm wondering how good a radial bearing in a pillow block works in a linear application.
 
minsk said:
what size is this block and and rod? im going to do one on each side
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It presently has a 7/8" rod and I've been using this for about six years with good results. My future project is a worm gear transmission to power lift the head and the present indexer which is mounted to the table is in the way. I'm making clamps to mount the indexer directly to the column. I also bought a hunk of 1 1/2 inch O1 tool steel for the new worm gear but I had to buy 3 feet and I only needed 4 inches. I'm using the extra to upgrade the 7/8" rod to to 1 1/2". The 7/8 rod is also O1 so I can use that to make other cutters.
 

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mickri said:
I use a dial indicator combined with a stop to bring the head back to position. Put the stop and DI against the spindle and zero the DI. Move the head wherever you need to and then bring it back until the DI reads zero again as the spindle touches the stop. Works for me.

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Click to expand...
While I love all the designs people make to "fix" this problem, I tried this and it works surprisingly well. I just have to watch the dial as the head moves so the movement stays within the limits of the dial.
 
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