RF 30 dro questions

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SlowDave

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I have a Taiwan made Rong Fu 30 Mill Drill I would like to put a 3 axis DRO on. If any of you have done this what length scales did you order for the X, Y and Z axes? I am confused by what I see on line. Videos like the Dro Pros have show measuring the range of movement but when I look at photos it seems like people order the longest that will fit. I also may add a power feed to this machine later so are there any concerns on scale length in regards to a power feed?

Thanks for your help on this. I am planning on ordering a cheap DRO from China and I am anticipating Murphy's Law will rule.
 
Hi Dave, I've got the RF45 mill and am just waiting for my DRO kit to arrive from China - different scale lengths so mine probably no use to you - I did find table travel details at the following link http://makerspace.pbworks.com/w/file/fetch/103224592/Rong Fu milling machine manual.pdf

X axis travel 400mm 15 3/4"
Y travel 160mm 6 1/4

Though looks like you could mount 450mm and 200mm scales on the table.

Not sure on loss of travel due to X axis power feed, but will follow with interest.
 
I installed a DRO on my Grizzly G1007 (RF-30 clone), which already had a power feed.

My main concern with the X axis was to prevent the scale from interfering with the power feed stops. The attached photos show how I did it. The scales are iGaging capacitive type scales, connected to a Shumatech display unit (visible in the first photo). Actual scale "stick" lengths are X=28 ½",Y=16", Z=9 ½".
Notes -
(1) The specified X travel of the table is 23 ½", but for various reasons, I've limited the X travel to ~17 ½". So far. I've not run into any problems due to the reduced travel. My mill is a somewhat longer in X than SnakeyJ's. The table itself measures ~37" in X.
(2) The red painted nuts visible in the second and third photos are "hard limit" stops, to prevent moving the round black power feed stops too far outward.
(3) My Y scale is a bit longer than needed, but I let the excess length stick out behind the mill.

As a general rule of thumb, add your mill's specified travel, the length of the scale read head, and about 1" extra for mounting, to get the length of scale you need. Capacitive scales are easy to cut to length, magnetic and optical scales not.

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Thank you. The ebay seller I am thinking of buying from asks for the scale length and model of mill. I sent him a question as to the recommended size for the RF 30. I am real close to pulling the trigger on this but I am nervous about ordering the wrong size. The info you provided has helped ease that uncertainty.
 
SlowDave said:
Thank you. The ebay seller I am thinking of buying from asks for the scale length and model of mill. I sent him a question as to the recommended size for the RF 30. I am real close to pulling the trigger on this but I am nervous about ordering the wrong size. The info you provided has helped ease that uncertainty.
Click to expand...

Move your table all the way to one end. Make a mark on the table & base, then move the table all the way to the other end. Measure the distance traveled then order the next size up for scale travel length. Repeat for the other axis.

Even if the measure distance is spot on or very close to an available size, order the next size up. Generally you want a scale at least 1" longer than what you need.

It may be easy asking/getting the answer from someone but unless they have the same exact mill it's best to measure to be sure. There are lots of RF-30 clones, some may have different table sizes. Not a good feeling getting a scale too short & damaging it if you max it out by accident.
 
Thanks. I placed the order using the length of travel. I also supplied the model and the table measurements. According to the ebay listing he adds a certain amount to the length of travel. It still seems like it will be shorter than what I see in the photos of what others have done.
 
Keep us informed, I also have a RF30 I would like to get set up. (and a lathe)
I like what Hman did to mount his scale on the front, but how to keep it from interfering with the table locks on the front.
 
kvt said:
... but how to keep it from interfering with the table locks on the front.
Click to expand...

Check the first photo. There are two spoked aluminum knobs (actually water faucet handles) above and to either side of the Y crank. These are the table locks. I cobbled them up, using valve knobs and longish bolts (8mm?). The scale mounts miss them when traversing the table in X, and the lengthened stems place them well in front of the X scale and read head.

I mis-spoke slightly in my earlier post when I said the scale mounts were designed to miss the table stop posts. They are designed to do that, by placing the scale well below the table stop parts. But the "C" shape was designed to clear the table locks.

PS - the Y table locks are as yet unmodified. They're easy enough to reach under the right side of the table.
 
OK, I will have to look and measure for some reason mine does not look like it has that much room but may be an illusion.
 
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