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riser block for a grizzly g0796

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skrewd

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#1
Does any know of a production 4 or 6 inch riser to fit a g0796. It best clones the South Bend mill but still don't find risers for them either. Grizzly's tech support offered no options and said they had no examples in which to give me numbers, zero help. How much of a clone is this clone? Will the j head riser fit? One ebay buyer said his BP riser on a true BP still had to be fitted to even be set down. I don't think going by the outside circumference will be enough not knowing the interior casting. I really don't want to open her up just yet but I may have to.
 

Bob Korves

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#2
A riser block can be made, mostly on the lathe. The mill will need to come apart anyway to install the riser, determining the dimensions will make you do so earlier. It is pretty easy to figure out the size stock you need to get going with it.
 

skrewd

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#3
I realize I would be machining the riser to fit. Descriptions like" fits Bridgeport clone" on ebay and the like are too vague. When shopping for used mills, I spend a year looking at several variants. Three quarter size to beautiful 6000 lbs monsters. I'm asking is there anyone out there who may have already done this to a g0796. That person could provide me with a compatible size ring from what ever company they made work. It is my belief that several companys sell that same mill with a different paint job, alas a SouthBend I saw was a definite sibling. A start from a South Bend riser, if I could find one or get its specs, would be a project I could tackle. Like most things in life it is a matter of time and money, you only have so much.
 

skrewd

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#5
Found what I hope will fit. Same bolt pattern and column diameter as a stock Bridgeport. I may take photos of the disassembly, fitment and reassembly.
 

skrewd

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#6
Grizzly g0796 riser block install, as best guess as everything else was a perfect match with a Bridgeport including my Model E Shaper, I purchased a 6 inch Bridgeport riser, with the exception of needing 4 shorter 1/2 inch bolts at the riser base, it is a slip fit no machining required. My first post with several images so please excuse my errors. Will finish Monday as I need to go to work. IMG_0088[1].JPG IMG_0089[1].JPG IMG_0090[1].JPG IMG_0091[1].JPG IMG_0092[1].JPG IMG_0093[1].JPG IMG_0094[1].JPG IMG_0095[1].JPG IMG_0096[1].JPG
 

tweinke

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#8
Looks good! nice increase in headroom. It did seem funny to me that no one knew an answer to your original question, I had no idea on how to get an answer especialy when I only have a bench mill.
 

lcrepairs

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#10
I have ordered a G0796 (backordered) Can you explain what the benefit is for the Riser block? I would love to do any mods that make it more useful, Hope to find lots of people with this mill as I'm a new hobbyist machinist. Thanks.
 

Bob Korves

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#11
The riser block allows taller work to be milled without running out of downward knee travel. It does make the minimum table to spindle distance larger as well, and so might require blocking up smaller work to be able to reach it. There is also some amount of rigidity lost by adding the riser block, probably not a serious issue. Basically, if you do a considerable amount of bulky work is probably makes sense, if you do nearly all small work it is probably more trouble than it is worth.
 

Silverbullet

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#12
Nice job , something I'm planning on doing to my little enco mill. Only I have to make it , not even sure the diameter on my mill. But if doubleboost can do his I can do mine. Only not 9" I figure 4-5" for my needs. Trying to find material for it. Found some 7 1/2 " diameter 8620 but I better get the size from one or mine. Just sucks to be stuck in bed .
 

lcrepairs

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#13
Bollocks, wish I had dimensions for mine. I think I read on here that it's the same as Bridgeport but I think to not lose spindle to table one might have to adjust spacer to 4-6 inches. I think Dale Derry had 7" I believe which I don't like because the quill wouldn't touch the vice, so that means it would limit work on the table. I do like the fact that he said it raises the table to a more comfortable height for normal use.
 

Dabbler

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#14
My 3 friends all bought the same 10X54 Modern Tool mill and 2 of them have riser blocks and one doesn't. They were bought as part of the purchase, installed by the vendor. My friend that doesn't have the riser block really regrets it as putting a vise with a swivel loses enough vertical space even small work is tenuous. (BTW to order it with the mill was $700 installed - after the fact, it came to $2200 without installation - go figure!)

If you use a rotary table or indexer often, a riser block is really desirable as well. My mill came with 25" of Z travel, so a riser block isn't needed in my case. So check out your machine specs; a lot of them have around 16" of Z travel. You can always take it out if you don't like it, but not having it can be a pain!
 

Dabbler

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#15
Icerepairs, other youtubers have raised their machines on the base to achieve the same result!
 

skrewd

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#16
Hello the mill is a close clone in many areas I didn’t expect. With only 15.5 inch travel limit of the knee plus 5 from the quill why should the quill touch the table? No operation I can forsee would that be needed. This is without a collet. In my work, a 5 inch thick vise and 5 of reamer plus an inch of parallels leaves just four inches for work piece at the lowest knee setting. Not very useful, but the riser opened that up to ten. Think boring tool, 90 degree offset adapter, vostro rotary adapter these all need extra range. That’s what a riser gives you.
 

chips&more

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#17
I have a 4” and 6” riser for my BP. They have been sitting on the floor for decades. I suppose the day will come. When you need the height, there is no substitute. I’ll be ready…Dave
 

lcrepairs

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#18
Thanks everyone. I'm thinking it would be best to have the riser before the mill arrives so I could install it while setting up the mill and be done with it. I just have to find out what the dimensions are somehow or a part number that works for sure. I'm not against building one. I'm not sure I can chuck something that big....HMMM. Guess I could see what my ole buddy James Greene knows about it. Or if someone on here could share a source to find the one I need. Thanks again. Hope I'm not beating this Horse to death.
 

lcrepairs

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#19
I have a 4” and 6” riser for my BP. They have been sitting on the floor for decades. I suppose the day will come. When you need the height, there is no substitute. I’ll be ready…Dave
Would you entertain the thought of selling one if it is right for mine?
 

f350ca

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#20
I think its a 10 inch riser I bought from Modern Tool, needed it for a project that never developed so it sat on the floor for a few years. Finally needed it and installed. Wouldn't be without it now. Brings the table up to a nice working height. I had to start using the swivel on the vice to bring it up and if working on the table I need to use a collet chuck to touch the table.

Greg
 
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Buffalo20

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#21
putting a riser block, after powerfeeds, is the best upgrade, I made to the Jet JVM-836 mill.
 

skrewd

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#22
I will take that 4 inch riser off your hands to help you out, where is it?
 

skrewd

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#24
I used a standard Bridgeport for my grizzly. I highly recommend only a six for now but a four spare is nice. With a simple hoist, half hour leisurely job, easy.
 

skrewd

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#27
Hello, as pictured I have a grizzly g796, a Bridgeport clone obviously and the Bridgeport series one risers fit it perfectly. I believe it has a 12 and 1/2 diameter bore, no slop or extra work required to fit but the x brace fits only one way so keep spinning it around, one orientation slips right in. The six inch was a good compromise, four too small, eight too tall, you can touch the table with the quill extended so small work not an issue. Bolts holes match right up, no extra fiddling. I am 6’4” so no bending in half now.
 
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skrewd

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#28
Ebay buy, new,No ebay listing from seller now but wow, the prices have gone way up. If you are unsure just undo the four bolts and lift it as I had to verify your diameters, it’s easy. You can use one or two spiders depending on where you want it to rotate on. I used one and shortened the supplied bolts a little. Can’t magnify that website on this phone large enough to read but they seem expensive.
 
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lcrepairs

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#29
putting a riser block, after powerfeeds, is the best upgrade, I made to the Jet JVM-836 mill.
It comes with the x power feed, I plan on adding the Z & Y after I check what size shaft it has for sure. Also I won't be able to stand not having quill DRO, so that will be one of the first items as well I'm sure. Adam Booth installed one, I'll have to go research what kind it was, seems like it was Mitutoyo.
 

skrewd

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#30
Power z yes, the y gets in the way and you have to tilt the power z for clearance. I took the two axis dro off to put on my lathe and bought the same three axis sino and replaced it for the mill. So I master one style dro and salvage the two axis dro. Ebay also
 
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