- Joined
- Dec 14, 2017
- Messages
- 32
More than a few years ago I purchased my Rockford MV100 mill it came with the factory table feed but it was non-working, my intent was to someday get it working but the more I thought about what was required (it lacked the engage lever and had something homemade) I started looking at a Bridgeport style power feed but wasn't sure how it would work and what was needed to make it work on my mill. The end plate that comes with the standard unit was designed to work with the 4 hole Bridgeport table and mine was 3 holes. The 4 hole pattern would not work as there was no room to drill it on my table, so my only option was to use the stock parts.
The leadscrew would need extended and a keyway cut. Since I could not extend the leadscrew and cut a keyway if the leadscrew was removed from the mill so I made a new stub to extend my leadscrew doing this I could mill a new keyway using the mill. Once this was done I could then take the leadscrew out and do the lathe work to prep it for the stub extension that would be welded on.
Modified my leadscrew with a socket so my extension could be light pressed on. I also filled in the existing keyway that was badly damaged.
I pressed my stub onto the leadscrew and TIG welded it checking as I went to make sure it was staying straight. I'm not an accomplished Tig welder but muddled my way through the process, it wasn't "going to the moon" so it did not have to be perfect just straight and functional.
After welding it was put back in the lathe to cleanup the shaft.
I needed to then attach the powerfeed gearbox to my end plate so I simply transferred the hole location onto my endplate there is clearance on the gearbox holes for alignment. I needed to use a Bridgeport dial and had to purchase one that matched my leadscrew rotation (0-100). Extra clearance is needed if you want to use the dial since my mill uses a round handle and it limits your "reach" into the dial. I spaced/shimmed everything up and then cutoff my stub extension. Fit my handwheel and added a screw to give positive load for the gears/spacing/shims.
I still have to install the handle on the wheel and make a proper washer for the handwheel attachment but, I have been quite pleased with this setup!
I have a DRO setup on this mill so the dial has not been an issue.
Sorry my video is sideways but you get the idea . . .
The leadscrew would need extended and a keyway cut. Since I could not extend the leadscrew and cut a keyway if the leadscrew was removed from the mill so I made a new stub to extend my leadscrew doing this I could mill a new keyway using the mill. Once this was done I could then take the leadscrew out and do the lathe work to prep it for the stub extension that would be welded on.
Modified my leadscrew with a socket so my extension could be light pressed on. I also filled in the existing keyway that was badly damaged.
I pressed my stub onto the leadscrew and TIG welded it checking as I went to make sure it was staying straight. I'm not an accomplished Tig welder but muddled my way through the process, it wasn't "going to the moon" so it did not have to be perfect just straight and functional.
After welding it was put back in the lathe to cleanup the shaft.
I needed to then attach the powerfeed gearbox to my end plate so I simply transferred the hole location onto my endplate there is clearance on the gearbox holes for alignment. I needed to use a Bridgeport dial and had to purchase one that matched my leadscrew rotation (0-100). Extra clearance is needed if you want to use the dial since my mill uses a round handle and it limits your "reach" into the dial. I spaced/shimmed everything up and then cutoff my stub extension. Fit my handwheel and added a screw to give positive load for the gears/spacing/shims.
I still have to install the handle on the wheel and make a proper washer for the handwheel attachment but, I have been quite pleased with this setup!
I have a DRO setup on this mill so the dial has not been an issue.
Sorry my video is sideways but you get the idea . . .