Rockwell band saw motor tripping GFI

Happy Labor Day,
I am working on this 1947 Delta 14” band saw.
I am getting close, just need one more bearing and I thought I was ready to go.
I replaced the electrical source 14/3 wire. Plugged it in and the GFI tripped immediately.
I checked my work, all looked good.
I removed the end shield and cleaned the points. They were pretty bad. I also discovered a chaffed wire. One of 3, there are two sets of 3 wires. See pic.
I taped the damaged insulation assuming that was it. Blew all the saw dust out of the motor etc.
I plugged it and it ran perfect, for about ten seconds, then tripped the GFI.
I haven’t checked amp load yet.
This is a 115/230 ac motor. 1/2 HP, frame is 56. Rated at 7.7 amps at 115 v which is how it is wired now.
Please excuse the improper names I applied to the components, I really am an idiot when working on anything electrical.
I would like to save this motor. I’ll look for more shorts in the mean time.
Do you think it can be saved?

CA3F880A-61C0-4F0C-9662-A6936A8E1DC4.jpeg

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Was the capacitor bad? Or you just didn't want to repair the wiring? Perfectly understandable, but many motors can be spiffed up and put back in service as long as the windings are not shorted, open, or shorted to the case. Some odd sized square capacitors are no longer available, which necessitates fitting a substitute. Centrifugal switches are sometimes too far gone. Very seldom that a USA motor can't be saved; can't say the same about import ones tho
m
 
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My two cents. I made up a six inch male and female extension cord with open twn wires so that I could use my clamp on ammeter. It just goes with me in my electrical bucket. Yes color coded wires with the correct polarity. I plug in the extension cord into the outlet and plug in the appliance to check the current flow. easy peazy
 
My two cents. I made up a six inch male and female extension cord with open twn wires so that I could use my clamp on ammeter. It just goes with me in my electrical bucket. Yes color coded wires with the correct polarity. I plug in the extension cord into the outlet and plug in the appliance to check the current flow. easy peazy
I built this version of your idea about a brazillian years ago. Because my ancient analog meter doesn't have very sensitive scales, I made a "coil" of 10 turns, so that I can get a 10X current reading.
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hman, I like your jig. I used to have the same Amprobe. Lost it in the house fire. I did make a similar adapter, but my newer clamp meters don't usually need the boost. I did do the ten-wraps thing back in the day, though.
 
GFI's have no place in a shop imho. My place has a 2 car attached and a 2-1/2 car detached garage that is now my shop. The previous owner of the place had GFI's everywhere. Why? I have no clue. It's certainly not required by code. I couldn't even plug in and use a shop vac without tripping a GFI. They're all replaced now with standard outlets and all is good.
 
Some areas require GFCI in attached garages. It's all up to the inspector.

If you think those are annoying, don't try an AFCI. Those things suck.
 
Some areas require GFCI in attached garages. It's all up to the inspector.

If you think those are annoying, don't try an AFCI. Those things suck.

From what I could gather from the NEC, GFCI's are required in garages that are built at or below grade. Makes sense, just like in a basement that may take on water.
 
All of the 110V outlets circuits in my shop are on GFCI breakers. I'm not a big fan of the GFCI outlets, they seem to have a much higher failure rate than GFCI breakers. My shop is basically a ground level detached garage on a slab. I had one older Craftsman motor that would trip the GFCI. It had a bad starting capacitor that had a high resistance short to the case. The GFCI was doing it's job.
 
Was the capacitor bad? Or you just didn't want to repair the wiring? Perfectly understandable, but many motors can be spiffed up and put back in service as long as the windings are not shorted, open, or shorted to the case. Some odd sized square capacitors are no longer available, which necessitates fitting a substitute. Centrifugal switches are sometimes too far gone. Very seldom that a USA motor can't be saved; can't say the same about import ones tho
m

I have been thinking this through, I may try to fix it. The capacitor is bad, I figured out how to test it and that has got to be a good place to start.
Meanwhile, I installed a new motor and its going up for sale when I get one more part.
PLUS, I am learning a bunch of stuff!!
 
Happy Labor Day,
I am working on this 1947 Delta 14” band saw.
I am getting close, just need one more bearing and I thought I was ready to go.
I replaced the electrical source 14/3 wire. Plugged it in and the GFI tripped immediately.
I checked my work, all looked good.
I removed the end shield and cleaned the points. They were pretty bad. I also discovered a chaffed wire. One of 3, there are two sets of 3 wires. See pic.
I taped the damaged insulation assuming that was it. Blew all the saw dust out of the motor etc.
I plugged it and it ran perfect, for about ten seconds, then tripped the GFI.
I haven’t checked amp load yet.
This is a 115/230 ac motor. 1/2 HP, frame is 56. Rated at 7.7 amps at 115 v which is how it is wired now.
Please excuse the improper names I applied to the components, I really am an idiot when working on anything electrical.
I would like to save this motor. I’ll look for more shorts in the mean time.
Do you think it can be saved?


Do you have one of the Delta "retirement" lamps? That was the culprit on mine. The paper insulator in the socket deteriorated.
dan
 
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