Rong Fu RF-31 RF31 Drum switch & motor wiring

Sounds like you have somewhat of a handle on this so: very simply put, what we want is for the one reversing wire from motor #6 to connect to one side of the power line in forward and the other side in reverse. You'll need to sleuth it out, so put on your sleuth hat :)
Also, of course, power needs to arrive at motor wires 1 and 4 in both forward and reverse, sounds like one of those two cases is not happening
Many of these switches require some jumpers to work properly- I wonder if that might be?
 
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Amazon sells those switches and has diagrams for them, but they do come in different flavors
 
markba633csi said:
Sounds like you have somewhat of a handle on this so: very simply put, what we want is for the one reversing wire from motor #6 to connect to one side of the power line in forward and the other side in reverse. You'll need to sleuth it out, so put on your sleuth hat :)
Also, of course, power needs to arrive at motor wires 1 and 4 in both forward and reverse, sounds like one of those two cases is not happening
Many of these switches require some jumpers to work properly- I wonder if that might be?
Click to expand...
So, I got it to turn on, spin cw in fwd, but on in rev and just a hummm. So, obviously I quickly shut it down.
Not sure why, but I found another schematic of the correct motor connections. I tried it, then swapped the switch wiring around to get the REV to properly turn on.
And then overload, breaker shut off. So, now I am not sure how the switch is supposed to be wired. Any ohm readout schematics I can locate?
 
Or... which switch to buy on amazon? Or the like.
 
Hold on, I think I see what's wrong. Tell me how the terminals are marked on the switch. I see R,S, 6, and U. There should be two more. 5 and V
I think
Looks like the switch is miswired by a previous owner-
R and S should be the incoming power.
U and V should go to the motor 1 and 4 (black and white)
6 or 5 should go to the motor red or yellow (you only need one wire here)
-M
 
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markba633csi said:
Hold on, I think I see what's wrong. Tell me how the terminals are marked on the switch. I see R,S, 6, and U. There should be two more. 5 and V
I think
Looks like the switch is miswired by a previous owner-
R and S should be the incoming power.
U and V should to to the motor 1 and 4 (black and white)
6 or 5 should go to the motor red or yellow (you only need one wire here)
-M
Click to expand...
Let me sort this and try it. I'll will check back.
Yes, R, S, 6, U, 5, V
 
Started over.
1. Motor wires connected correctly, as I was able to diagnose and decipher.
2. Switch wires connected with the accurate R, S, 6, U, 5, V orientation.

Did some testing and reconnecting to accurately position them so... Now the switch properly turned to FWD or REV will reveal this setup:
Switch FWD = CW Spindle rotation, Good.
Switch REV = CCW Spindle rotation, Good.
However, the switch internally needs to be cammed with accurate position, because there is spring back (once switch is clicked over to FWD/REV motor/spindle will not turn on) unless your hand is twisting switch knob beyond each "ON" (FWD or REV) position. Meaning, if you hold the switch slightly past its position with its spring tension Motor/Spindle will turn ON, and it will also spin in correct rotational direction.

I will report back, when I reconfigure the switch internally.
 
I wonder if that camming action is somehow intentional for safety reasons? First I have heard of that kind of behavior.
Anyhow, sounds good so far- did you find an error in the switch wiring as I suspected?
-M
 
markba633csi said:
I wonder if that camming action is somehow intentional for safety reasons? First I have heard of that kind of behavior.
Anyhow, sounds good so far- did you find an error in the switch wiring as I suspected?
-M
Click to expand...
Hello, sorry for the delay. Barely have time to look at this machine, let alone time to get other duties finished.

The "spring-past" (let's call it) must've been installed by myself. I took the switch apart to verify the proper contact points (of which were difficult to figure out, I did not have 'accurate' schematics) and upon assembling the back end, there is what looks like a circlip holding an extruded washer (or locating washer) between two pins that provide 'stops' for the switch to not go past. Well, I am sure that when I pushed the switch shaft back through most of the contacts that locating washer got flipped onto the opposite clicking of thos two pins. Anyway, the switch knob was 180° out. So the spring back allowed the motor/machine to turn on if held into each spring back location. I returned the switch shaft and camming locating washer to what I could verify as proper and whalahh.

So, to answer the question about suspected switch wiring...
I had no schematic to differentiate from 120v to 240v wiring. So I was going off of DMM ohm testing. Learning how this switch works is why I am posting now for future members to be able to decipher the proper motor wiring for 240v.

This picture is what "I" wired to work for me.
However, a proper orientation of switch wires and motor combination will successfully yield you a starting and running machine.
 

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Well done! Especially sleuthing out the switch like that. Always check the last thing you did when tracking a problem.
Normally, you can identify a switch internals by "ringing it out" with a continuity tester or ohmmeter, without having to take it apart
-M
 
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