rotary table for pm 30mv mill

[jimraney]

Hi,

I'm a newbie and have ordered a pm30 mill and a pm 1030 lathe. I have a little lathe experience, but no milling experience. I was wondering if one of you experienced people could advise me on a rotary table for my mill. Size, accessories and another advice.

thanks
Jim Raney

 

[Landmark]

I got the Grizzly T25937 5" Rotary Table. It works really well but it is smaller than I thought it would be.

 

[DAT510]

Welcome to H_M.

Do you have specific plans for your rotary table? If you can tell us what you would like to use you rotary table for it, would be helpful in what to recommend. The capabilities and prices vary quite a bit.

I personally have a Vertex HV-6 w/ tailstock and dividing plates on my Grizzly G0619 (which is in the similar size range as your PM30). For my needs I found it to be good mix in capability and price.

Stefan Gotteswinter has a nice YouTube series on his review and upgrade of the Vertex HV-6

 

[jimraney]

Welcome to H_M.

Do you have specific plans for your rotary table? If you can tell us what you would like to use you rotary table for it, would be helpful in what to recommend. The capabilities and prices vary quite a bit.

I personally have a Vertex HV-6 w/ tailstock and dividing plates on my Grizzly G0619 (which is in the similar size range as your PM30). For my needs I found it to be good mix in capability and price.

Stefan Gotteswinter has a nice YouTube series on his review and upgrade of the Vertex HV-6

I plan to fabricate parts for robotic projects, bearing housings, and other radiused parts as well as making jigs and fixtures for my wood working and electronic shop

 

[pontiac428]

I have a 6" Kamakura RT on my RF-30. Any larger would be difficult to use, but that all depends on what you anticipate doing. I think 6" is a happy medium for my mill table.

 

[WyoGreen]

I have an 8" Vertex on my PM30MV. While it sits on the mill just fine, it is very heavy. I've used it a few times and it works well. I went with the 8" with the thought that if I needed to clamp something to the face of it, there would be plenty of room for the clamps, and it has worked out well in that regard.
With that said, the 6" vertex is easier to find, and dividing plates for it are also easier to find. I imagine it is also a lot lighter to move on and off the mill.

Steve

 

[jimraney]

I got the Grizzly T25937 5" Rotary Table. It works really well but it is smaller than I thought it would be.

Thanks for the reply. I will look at this.

I have an 8" Vertex on my PM30MV. While it sits on the mill just fine, it is very heavy. I've used it a few times and it works well. I went with the 8" with the thought that if I needed to clamp something to the face of it, there would be plenty of room for the clamps, and it has worked out well in that regard.
With that said, the 6" vertex is easier to find, and dividing plates for it are also easier to find. I imagine it is also a lot lighter to move on and off the mill.

Steve

THANKS FOR YOUR INPUT AND ALSO THE OTHER POSTS. THE 6 INCH SEEMS LIKE THE RIGHT SIZE FOR ME. GREAT TO HAVE THIS FORUM, ESPECIALLY FOR NEWBIES LIKE ME.

 

[Chewy]

Did you already get the table or would you like the criteria I used to get mine?

 

[jimraney]

Did you already get the table or would you like the criteria I used to get mine?

I havn't got one yet. I am in Mexico (snow bird) for a few more weeks and will return to take delivery of my lathe, mill and a large press (another project). I would appreciate your selection criteria

 

[Chewy]

I got the Grizzly H7527 6" rotary table a couple of years ago for around 1/2 price on Ebay. Actually bought it before the mill. I got the dividing plates and tailstock with it. The table is horizontal/vertical. Most are, but not all. 6" is great on the PM-30MV. The table has 4 slots not 3. It just seems easier to me when setting up the work. I'm used to X-Y on the mill or with 4 jaw chucks. Setting up the work is the problem, not centering the table. A quick table setup is only a couple of minutes good to 1 or 1 1/2 thousand. Plenty good for most radius work. If you need more then that, then you have to dial it in.

The center hole is 2MT not straight. I personally thick it is more accurate, but that's me. The MT2 allows you to get small 3 jaw chucks and plug directly into the center. After using the table I'm going to go a different route. The MT2 dead center sticks out a couple of inches, so I guess that a commercial chuck would also stick out a good deal. One of the first taper projects on my new lathe is to cut a shortened MT2 version and attach to a flat plate and buy a cheaper 3 jaw chuck. The table surface clears the mounting base by around .030. I am on the look out for a flat bottom 8" 4 jaw chuck to speed up work holding.

Take the MT2 center and drop it in. Mark on either side where it touches the table. Grind two small notches in it to allow you to pry the center out. Doesn't hurt the center. I use it in horizontal to center the table by touching the point with a dowel. I use 3/8" & 1/2" drill rod with a center hole in it. I use it in vertical with home made on the spot lathe dogs to clamp and rotate the piece. If you have to give up something, make it the tailstock. You can do work arounds without it.

The dividing plates are another story. Don't leave home with out them. The increased accuracy and speed are what it is all about. You can layout holes without them, and your accuracy is only as good as your eyes.

The ideal for me was a 6" 4 slot horiz/vert MT2 with dividing plates and tailstock. 2nd choice was the same only 3 slot. Vertex HV-6 or the clones were the ones I looked at.

I am currently collecting fixture plate pictures. I plan on making drop in plates that self center and attach with 2 bolts. As stated above, it's centering the work and attaching to the table that takes all the time.

Good luck Charles