Rotary table problem

Just took a look at mine.
Lock the rotation crank , loosen the top lever and (rotate the whole crank and dial) to cam the worm out.
If the crank wont rotate, then it might be bent or otherwise jammed.
 
At this moment, I'm awaiting UPS for the delivery of 2 spanner wrenches. Hard to believe NAPA and other stores do not carry spanners.

Given that the table is 4-years-old and has never had a drop of oil in it, I believe the shaft is slightly corroded causing it to stick. The previous owner was located in Florida in an un-airconditioned shop.

However, it may also be that the lock-nut arrangement is simply too tight, or was loose and was inadvertently tightened by rotations of the hand-wheel.

I just wish Phase 2 would produce an on-line assembly/disassembly manual for this -- not just an old exploded-parts diagram. (My table has parts not shown on the diagram I found.)
 
I did find that, but thank you for posting a link to it.

I got the spanner wrenches and was still unable to release the locked nut. Three other guys tried for about an hour. I finally started grinding the outer-most nut -- it eventually gave up the ghost.

Absolutely amazing how tightly it was on. There was light corrosion on the thread in a few spots, but I think turning the nut might've wiped away some of the corrosion evidence.

So now I just have to buy a new nut, clean and oil the entire unit, and re-assemble... I just love having a week wasted for a simple, one-hour project !!
 
I bought a really decent condition 12: Phase II and took it apart to inspect it after it got home. When reassembling it I had the exact same problem happen and I'll be durned if I can remember the specifics. All I can remember is that it was something about the Pin in the casting. at the back of the handle was a rotation stop for the worm engagement/disengagement.. The pin is basically like a set screw with a 1/4" or so long nose. . It was an adjustment, I believe. the little pin is too far in. First, in the hole is a standard setscrew used as a grub and stop screw. Then after it is out, the other long nose set screw is deeper inside. That is the adjustment I think.

To get that little 1/4" black plug out that has a hole in it you just have to screw a socket head screw into and it just pulls out under tension after you remove the other pins and screws that hold it in. The plug holds the entire worm shaft into place. Then you can get the dang worm and handle out of the unit. Remember to have already removed the table first as getting the worm out is hard if you don't.

Also, remember that this thing is made to disengage the worm on demand by turning the entire eccentric.

That is another worm mesh adjustment, is getting the eccentric in the right place for smooth motion. If the eccentric is partially engaged it can cause a bad worm mesh and a freeze. it should be left in either fully close (meshed) or open (unmeshed) to keep the worm from getting galled or nicked.
 
Thanks very much for the docs and the email to Neil.

I ended up buying some thin-profile hex nuts because I could not find anyone who carried those spanner nuts.

I milled about 1/16" off the nuts to further reduce their thickness, then turned them on the lathe just just kiss off the hex corners. So now I have two hex nuts jammed together instead of the original spanner nuts.

After scotch brite, oil and adjusting, the table has been working very well.

The nuts are: Class 04 Steel Thin Hex Nut - DIN 439B, Zinc Plated, M18x1.5 Thread Size, 27mm Wide, 9mm High
McMaster Carr PN#: 90326A140
$0.65 USD each
 
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