Rotary table tricks and tips

[randyc]

I used the whole shebang last week inletting a block of aluminum for a Mauser stock. The ability to tap holes wherever needed for odd shaped parts really comes in handy. I needed to cut the tapered sides for the receiver tang:

VERY, very nice work !! I love old Mausers and have three of them - favorite is custom .300 Win Mag on Argentine action.

 

[thomas s]

Thanks to all of you for taking the time to post these ideas. thomas s

 

[UncleRuss]

Similar to Randyc, I do this. My table accepts a #3 morse taper dead center, so I place a center in it. A 6" piece of 3/4" stainless was smoothed up and using a very large center drill (#8 I think) I drilled the end of the shaft. Now with the center in the table and shaft in a collet in the mill I draw down on the point and if the table is nice and clean with a hint of WD40 on it, it pulls the table into alignment with the spindle. Check it with a DRO if it needs to be dead nuts but usually is pretty darn close. I milled flats on the center so after the table is bolted down, a twist with a wrench loosens the center for removal.

 

[randyc]

Similar to Randyc, I do this. My table accepts a #3 morse taper dead center, so I place a center in it. A 6" piece of 3/4" stainless was smoothed up and using a very large center drill (#8 I think) I drilled the end of the shaft. Now with the center in the table and shaft in a collet in the mill I draw down on the point and if the table is nice and clean with a hint of WD40 on it, it pulls the table into alignment with the spindle. Check it with a DRO if it needs to be dead nuts but usually is pretty darn close. I milled flats on the center so after the table is bolted down, a twist with a wrench loosens the center for removal.

That's a much better idea than mine ! The tapers can pull the table into alignment with their mechanical advantage rather than having to "search" for a pin to line up with a collet.

 

[markknx]

Couple tools I use to speed up set up of the RT. The one with the point is used to get things real close, so indicating is shortwork. The other does the same thing but can get you close enough for al but the real fine work. It works by inserting the top(non-tapered) side into a collet in the spindle, bring the spindle down to RT slowly guide the taper intoe the taper on the RT. Once mated tighten the table. It is also used to locate work on the RT using a center hole. I use this and then bore the hole to required size after removing part from RT.

 

[18w]

All good ideas. I had a job one day, kind of a rush. Popped a morse taper in the centerhole and got it all dialed in. Went to remove the taper and it was stuck a little tighter than I could grip...wasn't as smart as UncleRuss...the dead center was off my dividing head and I didn't want to mar it up with pliers. Undid the whole set up and knocked the center out and started over. As I recall there was a considerable amount of cussing at that point. It was then I remembered I had bought a Blake coax indicator at a pawn shop years earlier. One of those tools you knew you needed but realized you didn't after you bought it.Popped it in a collet and dialed the table in in a heartbeat. The nice thing is if I put a longer finger in the coax I can sweep the o.d. of my 12" rotary table if the center hole isn't exposed. Not recommending anyone run out and buy one but sometimes it helps to remember some of that old tooling you had to have and forgot about.

Darrell