Rust Protection - Boeshield or Fluid Film?

It is actually quite similar to Fluidfilm, except for the cost... And you can tweak the recipe in any direction that makes sense to meet your needs.

So did you tweek the recipe? When I was in the San Joaquin valley I mostly didn't have to worry about rust like over here. I guess I'm odd as this smell of wet sheep that everybody notes about Fluidfilm doesn't bother me even though I have a very good sense of smell. Now cigarettes or bad car exhaust, THAT gets me.
 
I use a product called INOX MX3. I use it as a cutting fluid on the lathe and when drilling holes etc.. Its also a very good penetrant and rust preventer. As I'm using it on the lathe everything is covered in a light film, and nothing is going rusty, all still shiny. I get it in a 5Lt. container and decant it into a couple of small squirt bottles that I use for everything. Far superior to rp7, wd40, crc etc.


BY the way it is actually recommended by the manufacturer as a cutting fluid for Stainless and aluminium, but I also use it on steel, and anything else that needs it, avoids the need to have one for this and one for that. And its also a dewatering fluid and lubricant. They also make a range of other lubricants including food grade ones.
 
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I live in the Deep South and our high humidity and warm temps cause tools will rust tools practically overnight. I have tried lots of protectants, but stopped when I discovered WD40 Specialist Long Term Corrosion Inhibitor. The stuff works, and it lasts a long time!

It sounds similar to the description of T-9 in it goes on wet and stays wet if a heavy coat is applied. However, it seems to dry if a light coat is applied. Either way seems to protect equally well.

Here is a link to a thorough test of lubricants and rust inhibitors that is really good: https://www.shootersforum.com/gun-cleaning/91566-results-gun-care-product-evaluation.html
 
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Google Ed's Red. Homemade, cheap, works great. I make mine to a recipe of
1 part anhydrous lanolin (from eBay)
1 part ATF
5 parts mineral spirits
Heat the lanolin carefully until it is completely melted, then mix in the other two ingredients. That mixture works well for everything in the shop -- tools, machines, and metal stock. Apply a wet coat and let it dry. It leaves a nearly invisible, dry to the touch coating.
About a year ago, I set out to find a less expensive alternative to Fluid Film. Bought some anhydrous lanolin from the Bay and tested it with various solvents, to figger out which would work best. Several worked OK, but turpentine turned out to work best - dissolved the greatest amount of lanolin per volume of solvent. Not a bad smell, either. Didn't go much further, as I moved from humid Oregon to dry Arizona soon thereafter.

Nevertheless, I'll give Ed's Red a try. Thanks for the post!
 
So did you tweek the recipe?
Yes, I did tweak it a bit, but I do not remember exactly what I changed. I am not using it for cleaning barrels, so I tweaked it toward anti-rust properties and toward a decent protective film thickness.

When I was in the San Joaquin valley I mostly didn't have to worry about rust like over here.
The Sacramento valley is pretty kind to things that rust, but eventually gets them if ignored. It is just one of the good reasons for living here.
 
I keep Fluid Film around but stopped using it on the machines and tools in the shop. Just too messy - everything is covered in a gummy residue that accumulates dust, swarf, bugs, you name it. LPS-3 is similar, a bit better behaved but about three times the price.

I'm out of the rust season now but will probably do a homebrew next year. Not likely to be Red's as I'm a bit put off by the lanolin - so far my experience has been that you might as well use cosmoline for all the work you have to do cleaning the machinery before use.
 
I appreciate all of the reply's so far.
I have read a good deal on Ed's Red from the various firearm and reloading groups which I visit. However, I never heard of it being used to protect machinery. I think I may just make up a batch and see how it works.

Thank you!
 
I keep Fluid Film around but stopped using it on the machines and tools in the shop. Just too messy - everything is covered in a gummy residue that accumulates dust, swarf, bugs, you name it. LPS-3 is similar, a bit better behaved but about three times the price.

I'm out of the rust season now but will probably do a homebrew next year. Not likely to be Red's as I'm a bit put off by the lanolin - so far my experience has been that you might as well use cosmoline for all the work you have to do cleaning the machinery before use.
The recipe I posted in post #6 dries to a clear, non sticky surface. I cannot tell it is there by handling it or looking at it. There is no odor after it is dry in a couple hours, and never a lanolin odor.
 
Bob,

Is your version of Ed's Red spray-able in a squirt bottle? Does it solidify after it cools down?

Thanks
 
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