Rutland RF-30 Fine Feed Travel Issues

[brino]

I do not know exactly what the spindle taper number is/means, that will determine my model.

You will need to know this. It determines what tooling you can use.

The R8 taper collets looks like this:


https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=5915&category=


MT-3 taper collets look like this:

https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1948&category=

Both kinds use a draw bar that's threaded into the back end to hold them into the spindle.

If you got any tooling with the machine, compare it to the pictures above.

Brian

 

[MOUCHRA]

Thank you Brian, I will.
The friend that gave it to me has some tools for it so I will talk to him and find out.

Thank you for your reply, obviously a beginners question.
Roger

 

[MOUCHRA]

This helps. It shows the spring "S3" on the opposite side of what this new manual calls the" clutch", which is what I was alluding to in post #5. Do you have all the parts shown in the IPB?

Hello Mikey, so I took it apart again today. Not all the parts shown on page 17 are part of my machine so back to looking for the correct manual. Parts B6, 45, 36 and 37 are not part of it. I took several photographs as I was taking it apart.
I tried assembling it with the spring first against the machine and then the gear but the fine feed is extremely hard to turn.
I re-assembled it in the following order: worm gear (pic..5908R), worm gear housing..6408R, cone shaped bushing to match inner shape on gear pic 2607R, guide for handle pic 1352 and last rapid down feed hub pic..1852R). The rapid down feed works fine when the bolt on the outside of the hub is loose but when tighten the fine feed is almost impossible to turn pic..4542R. I have ordered a new worm gear from MSC Direct parts who is the company that purchased Rutland. Parts are coming from Taiwan soon, I was told. Not sure what the issue is. I am thinking of trying to locate a local machine repair company or experienced machinist to take a look at this, sorry just venting a bit it is a bit frustrating .

 

[MOUCHRA]

Thank you Brian, I will.
The friend that gave it to me has some tools for it so I will talk to him and find out.

Thank you for your reply, obviously a beginners question.
Roger

Brian, it is R8, Ken my friend just replied to me. He told me not to go out and buy a bunch of collets and milling bits before I try his .

 

[mikey]

In post 23 of this thread, @mickri has a mill similar to yours. I wonder if he might be able to help?

 

[mickri]

Don't think I can be much help right now. I recently moved and my mill/drill is sitting on the garage floor with the column and head not attached to the base. I'll take a look at it tomorrow.

 

[brino]

Brian, it is R8, Ken my friend just replied to me. He told me not to go out and buy a bunch of collets and milling bits before I try his

Great!
R8 is very popular for many vertical mills including Bridgeports, so there should be lots of tooling available.

I agree wait to sort thru all the part you have; those links were just meant to show the source of the photos I "borrowed".

Brian

 

[MOUCHRA]

Don't think I can be much help right now. I recently moved and my mill/drill is sitting on the garage floor with the column and head not attached to the base. I'll take a look at it tomorrow.

Thank you mickri for taking the time to look!

 

[mickri]

Our machines are different. I tried to take the speed handle off of mine but it didn't want to slip off.

I have manuals for several different versions of these RF mill/drills and their clones. None of them show the fine feed like your machine As best as I can tell your are missing the nob that sits outboard of the speed handle. It has been replaced by a bolt. And you may have the wrong speed handle for your machine.

I believe that this is the correct order of the parts for your machine starting with the gear. First comes the gear. Next is the clutch cone. Then comes what I will call the tube. None of my manuals show this tube. Next is the spring followed by the speed handle. Finally there is the knob. The speed handle is keyed to the shaft and the clutch cone may also be keyed to the shaft. The speed handle and the clutch cone if keyed have to be able to slide on the shaft. The spring could possibly go between the gear and the clutch cone if and only if the clutch cone can fully engage the gear with the spring in that position.

To engage the fine feed you screw in the knob. This forces the speed handle against the tube which forces the tube against the clutch cone which is forced into the gear which forces the gear against the shaft. Everything is locked together by fiction. To disengage you screw out the knob. The spring forces the speed handle out freeing everything up so that the gear can spin on the shaft.

You mention that the fine feed is almost impossible to turn with everything tight. Does the fine feed turn easily when everything is loose? Have you taken the fine feed shaft out? It may be gunked up with crud and not able to turn freely.

 

[Dave Smith]

I just found old ENCO Models 91000-91034 manual and it has the fine feed disengagement spring (S3) in front of the gear (33) on page 17. According to this manual on page 20 my machine is either model 91033 or 91034 since it is only 220V 3 Phase 2 Speed. I do not know exactly what the spindle taper number is/means, that will determine my model.

I have a Menards 30 mill just like yours made in 1984 Tiawan. I will look to see if I have a manual on it. I took the handle off it today and the spring is between the gear and the washer unit, you have to turn the handle to not only fit the key in the shaft but the little notch on the handle has to fit the pin in the washer unit. you have to loosen the end bolt some for the fine feed to work, or tighten it. ---my mill is my other shop 40 miles away so next trip I will take it apart and take pictures of the sequence of the parts, unless I can find a manual on it. I will also get the serial number also. was your mill made before or after 1984?
Dave