- Joined
- Sep 25, 2014
- Messages
- 1,093
Yes, run the motor, but ensure you apply the usual safety instructions.
I just started up a great old motor: 1HP. It had a promenent label stating it had sleeve bearings (and the flip top oil cups). Must have weighed 50 pounds.
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/carboloy-excello-tool-grinder.37715/#post-323170
It was wired for 440V (series windings). When the went to reconnect it to 220V (parallel windings), I noted the insulation crumbling on the leads from the fuse, sort of a rubber material (yes fuses and a knife switch disconnect). The leads inside the pecker head used small bolts and a rubber tape to make the connections (it was a very small connection box). The woven insulation on the motor leads was very hard. I carefully reconnected the motor per the lead numbering instructions (solder and heat shrink - the box had very little room).
The original set up was not grounded, was using #12 wiring and 30 Amp fuses at that 440V (nameplate draw of 1.4 amps).
I added a ground from my wall plug, to the fuse box, to the motor switch and the motor case (put new #14 wire through out - I had some nice 3C+G cab tire). I changed the fuses to 5 Amp (motor name plate is 2.8A at 220V). The motor starts well off my RPC (which is going to be somewhat unbalanced). Granted if I switched the motor FWD to REV it would likely blow fuses (but it is a grinder, I can't think of a reason to be changing direction quickly).
Ensure the integrity of the wiring, use a ground (as you have already stated). Another good strategy for small 120V loads is to run through a GFI (cheap, easy to install and gives very good protection against most electrical faults).
I just started up a great old motor: 1HP. It had a promenent label stating it had sleeve bearings (and the flip top oil cups). Must have weighed 50 pounds.
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/carboloy-excello-tool-grinder.37715/#post-323170
It was wired for 440V (series windings). When the went to reconnect it to 220V (parallel windings), I noted the insulation crumbling on the leads from the fuse, sort of a rubber material (yes fuses and a knife switch disconnect). The leads inside the pecker head used small bolts and a rubber tape to make the connections (it was a very small connection box). The woven insulation on the motor leads was very hard. I carefully reconnected the motor per the lead numbering instructions (solder and heat shrink - the box had very little room).
The original set up was not grounded, was using #12 wiring and 30 Amp fuses at that 440V (nameplate draw of 1.4 amps).
I added a ground from my wall plug, to the fuse box, to the motor switch and the motor case (put new #14 wire through out - I had some nice 3C+G cab tire). I changed the fuses to 5 Amp (motor name plate is 2.8A at 220V). The motor starts well off my RPC (which is going to be somewhat unbalanced). Granted if I switched the motor FWD to REV it would likely blow fuses (but it is a grinder, I can't think of a reason to be changing direction quickly).
Ensure the integrity of the wiring, use a ground (as you have already stated). Another good strategy for small 120V loads is to run through a GFI (cheap, easy to install and gives very good protection against most electrical faults).