Sanding steel

[Maplehead]

Hi Gents
What’s the most efficient way to sand steel? I found a nickel plater for my parts and he said that if I want a mirror finish that the parts need to be sanded and polished to a mirror finish. I started doing this today via running the part over wet/dry 320 grit. It’s taking forever to get the end mill/facing marks out.
Is there a better/quicker/easier method for the sanding process?

 

[Eddyde]

You have to start with a corse grit and work your way up. Hard to say how corse as that can vary depending on the material and the depth or the profile you want to remove. Maybe try 80 or 120 then 220 then 320 and so on till you get to where you want to be. Also, buffing wheels with emery compound then white compound for the final polish. Another possibility is using a convolute wheel or belt. But the plater is correct, any imperfection in the part will show in the finish.

 

[Firestopper]

Most chrome shop include this process for a shiny smooth finish but come with a cost. The smoother/polished, the better finish you will end up with. If your planning on a production of those parts, you should consider stamping. If your only doing whats pictured, plain elbow grease is the only way to achieve the surface your after. Dremel sells a wide assortment of sanding/polishing items but nothing will be quick.
Be carful not to gouge/nick as this will really show up when polished.
Guitar parts?

 

[Maplehead]

Most chrome shop include this process for a shiny smooth finish but come with a cost. The smoother/polished, the better finish you will end up with. If your planning on a production of those parts, you should consider stamping. If your only doing whats pictured, plain elbow grease is the only way to achieve the surface your after. Dremel sells a wide assortment of sanding/polishing items but nothing will be quick.
Be carful not to gouge/nick as this will really show up when polished.
Guitar parts?

Hello
Yes, guitar parts. I’ve often thought about stamping. Is it pretty accurate and cost efficient? I would be making what’s pictured about every month, maybe up to twice that amount if sales go well.

 

[chips&more]

Surface grinder.

 

[Firestopper]

Hello
Yes, guitar parts. I’ve often thought about stamping. Is it pretty accurate and cost efficient? I would be making what’s pictured about every month, maybe up to twice that amount if sales go well.

Initial setup cost would run some money, but if your serious about production runs, that would spit them out quickly and accurately. You would need to evaluate cost vs demand. You could also farm out the task but you would make much less in the end. What sets your parts apart from others? Forgive my ignorance but is there something different about your product?
The larger piece could be punched in a single action to include the offset. The die/s cost a pretty penny but it would go straight to plating after de burring.
What is the material and thickness? Another option would be to have the larger piece laser cut but then a second operation would be required for what looks to be the said offset.
If you could post up a larger photo, it sure would help show some details.

 

[Maplehead]

Initial setup cost would run some money, but if your serious about production runs, that would spit them out quickly and accurately. You would need to evaluate cost vs demand. You could also farm out the task but you would make much less in the end. What sets your parts apart from others? Forgive my ignorance but is there something different about your product?
The larger piece could be punched in a single action to include the offset. The die/s cost a pretty penny but it would go straight to plating after de burring.
What is the material and thickness? Another option would be to have the larger piece laser cut but then a second operation would be required for what looks to be the said offset.
If you could post up a larger photo, it sure would help show some details.

The big circular piece is what I call the top plate. It’s the visual part of my bridge. What sets it apart is that it’s the first tool-less electric guitar bridge. There’s more parts to it but they are not shown nor do those parts need plating.
I imagine the initial cost is to have somebody make the punch and die. About how much would that cost? The part is 4.28” in diameter and is .060” steel.

 

[Firestopper]

Dies run serious money, in fact the punch press would cost much less IMO.

 

[RJSakowski]

I usually start with 60 grit wet or dry paper, sanding wet but that depends upon how deep the marks that I'm trying to remove are., then. I will sand in one direction until the marks that I am trying to remove are gone then change the direction 90º and repeat. By changing direction, it is easier to see if the previous marks are removed. I will work my way up through finer and finer grades of paper until I get the finish that I want. My local auto parts store has grits going to 2000. Past that I use a diamond paste going down to .2 micron for a mirror finish.

I sand by moving the parts on the stationary paper held to a flat surface by wetting with water. Having a flow of water also helps to remove the waste and loosened grit. You want to keep the downward force center3ed over the part to prevent dubbing the edges.

In sanding small parts, the biggest problem is work holding. gluing the part to a wood block or using double sided carpet tape will help.

 

[4GSR]

I'm surprised your plater did not mention electropolishing before doing the nickel plating. When electropolishing is done correctly with the correct bath and anode, it will leave a near mirror finish with very little prep work.